| Clothing is influencing the psychology,physiology and social comfort of individuals as “the environment closest to humans” in the customer-oriented consumption age.The fitness of clothes is widely considered as the most vital factor influencing the appearance and vendibility of clothing.Which is even more important than clothing’ styles,color,structure,price and fabric.Consumers expect to put on tailored clothing that matches their bodies.As one of important types among clothing,menswear requires enterprises producing menswear to meet customers’ expectation of individualization and fitness.Therefore,it’s quite necessary to conduct an in-depth study on the pattern design of menswear.From customers’ expectation of individualization and factors influencing menswear’s pattern design,the topic is based on menswear’s traditional pattern design and existing pattern design to put forward a philosophy of a pattern design model for men top.Applying the principle of flattening curved surface and related software,digital three-dimensional human model will serve as a support and be conducted a layered pattern design during the design for men tops by depriving of and flattening curved surface of 3D human bodies.The relational model of each layer’s pattern design will be established to seek a systematic pattern design method for well-tailored menswear.The main contents and conclusion of the paper are as follows.(1)After comprehensively analyzing design factors related to menswear’s pattern,a layered design philosophy of menswear’s pattern has been set forth.And based on this philosophy,relational model for body block of menswear is established.(2)Combining design knowledge over men top’s pattern design and Fashion CAD technology,a 3D design of basic men-clothing model will be conducted in the CATIA environment.By flattening curved surface,a human pattern of menswear was acquired.After the establishment of the relational mode of body block of menswear,sample production for this model was completed.Try-on enables us to assess the correctness of this model.(3)According to the classification result of menswear’s styles,the corresponding relationship between menswear’s styles and body block was analyzed;Relational model for body block of menswear was founded and the sample production of menswear’s body block pattern was completed.Try-on enables us to assess the correctness of this model.(4)According to factors influencing menswear’s special pattern,modification was conducted on the relational model for body block of men tops.Based on the modified relational model,sample production was carried out to manufacture a sample of the relational model for body block of men tops.Examples have been used to demonstrate the feasibility of this method.(5)The corresponding relation,including the characteristics of male’s upper body part and the body block for men tops,body block of men tops and relational model for body block of men tops,as well as relational model for body block of men tops and design parameters of this relational model,have been analyzed and established.The philosophy of layered design for men tops’ pattern and the relational model of body block for menswear put forward by this paper aims to provide comprehensive consideration and parameter processing over the design relationship and influencing factors of men tops’ pattern design,which offers a scientific foundation for pattern design that bases on three-dimensional body block of humans.The relational model of body block for menswear which based upon a philosophy of layered pattern has realized to design menswear pattern on the “basic pattern” of individualized humans in accordance with customers’ expectation.And it eventually enables pattern designers and customers to adjust styles by changing parameters,which embodies the philosophy of knowledge-driven automatic patterning and designs a relational model of body block for menswear that meets customers’ personalized demands.It individualizes,standardize and regulate the process of pattern design.Market’s demand of rapid reflection is met and new technology as well as pattern-making method is brought out for digital menswear’s pattern design. |