This paper was to study the summer combat clothing that was equipped in2007(namely 07 combat clothing). Functional structure optimization design was made by analyzing the structure factors that resulted in the poor motion and thermal-wet comfort of the combat clothing’s shoulder and back.Related experiments of motion and thermal-wet comfort properties were also made to verify if the functional structure optimization design was reasonable enough. The purpose of this article is to provide theoretical and practical structure design guidance for perfecting the comfortable feeling of 07 combat clothing.First, according to the comfort demand of 07 combat clothing, a new type of fabric B was chosen and related experiments of motion and thermal- wet comfort properties were made. Test projects were as follows: water diffusion; Water vapor permeability test; Air permeability test; Tensile strength; Tearing strength; Bending length; Crease recovery. Results showed that fabric B meets the wearable needs of 07 combat clothing except that its mechanical properties were slightly lower. Next, experimental clothes were producted by optimizing the structure design proposals. Based on the previous research on improving the comfortable feeling by increasing the clothing allowance and under clothing space, this paper proposed three design proposals based on 07 combat clothing: two symmetrical pleats were put in the back of the clothe, two elliptical gussets were spliced under the arm and the sleeve style was changed from set-in sleeve to raglan sleeve. According to the design proposals, the structure diagrams of 8 clothes were drawed with Gerber C AD, then these 8 clothes were virtually fitted with 3D V-Stitcher. Pressure diagrams of the shoulder and back under 9 body movements were intercepted to calculate the compression area. The structure proposals of clothes 6# and 7#, which had relatively small compression area were selected as re ference for making real combat clothing. Then according to the structure proposals of 6# and 7# and the use of breathable knitted fabric C to the gussets and pleats, orthogonal experiment was designed and 1##~5## combat clothes were producted. And last, the motion and thermal- wet properties experiments were made by fitting on clothes 1##~5##. Two motion property tests were made in which objective tests including clothing pressure as well as slippage of sleeve and hem while the subjects do 7 movements under each state of arms straight or bent and subjective tests including the sense of oppression and bondage of shoulder and back. Clothings 2## and 3## which had best motion comfort properties as well as 07 combat clothing 5## were selected to do the two therma l-wet property tests in which objecticive tests including the temperature and humidity of the skin and subjective tests including the wet, hot, muggy and sticky feeling of the under arm and back. Experimental results showed that the structure design of clothe 2##(knitted gussets and pleats, set- in sleeve) was the most optimal for improving wearing comfortability of 07 combat clothing. |