| Since the late1970s, the women in Hui’an area, as the unique humanistic resources and the cultural image symbols in Minnan area, has been payed widespread attention at home and abroad. They are famous for their beauty, hard-working, virtuous, and a fancy dress which is caused by the isolated geographical position special and the economic model, the local men working get out of town, the local women farming at home. It can put forward reasonable suggestions for the women to choose the fabric with good comfortableness from the study point, the garment constructure and its fabric comfortableness, based on the distinctiveness of the women’s clothing and working.Firstly, in order to introduce the customs and clothing development history in Hui’an area, especially on clothing structure and its design principle, lots of information has been collected from Fujian Library, Fujian Normal University Library, Quanzhou Library, Hui’an Library, Hui’an Reservoir Memorial Library and some oral interview information.It has selected200women in Hui’an area aged30to45as sample group by martin measuring instrument. The measurement projects were36, but consider the purpose of this research only13project specific measurements were serviceable.The number of effective samples were192after eliminating singular values.According to the basic statistic analysis of the variables, it finds that the average of heightt, chest circumference and hip circumference were157.271cm,87.566cm and93.74cm respectively, namely the intermediate body. Based on variable parameter correlation analysis, height and chest circumference were chosen as the independent variable for the upper body measurements, height and hip circumference were chosen as the independent variable for the lower body measurements. And then regression equations were gotten by stepwise regression analysis. Combined with the result of correlation analysis, it established the clothing patterns.To obtain the women labor movement in Hui’an area, the movements of the visual observation method,image motion observation method and consulting method were applied.Arranging and classifying of action by the internal factors and external factors.From the human torso and upper and lower limb movement to made an concrete analysis on the labor movement.78kinds of commonly used clothing fabrics have been collected in local field, and using KES fabric style evaluation system tested their performance, including fabric surface properties, bending properties, tensile properties, shear performance and mechanical performance. The relationship between fabric structure parameters and mechanical properties parameters were gotten by SPSS analysis, specific analysis include factor analysis, correlation analysis, regression analysis and principal component analysis. Then clustered these78kinds fabrics into11categories,11kinds of fabrics have been selected as representative fabrics.Upper outer garments of women in Hui’an were made by the11kinds of fabrics on the basis of the garment pattern.6women aged30to45years old, whose height,chest circumference are157cm±2cm,88cm±2cm respectively, were selected to try sample clothings on under the certain experimental environment.Neck, shoulder, chest, armpits, elbows, back, waist these seven parts were chosen as evaluation indicators, and6experts commented on these7indicators that distributed their contribute values. The testers done designated movement and then marked these7indicators by five-point scale of subjective evaluation.The11jackets comfort leve were gotten by combining the result of subjective evaluation and contribute values.Combined fabric database with computer technology, the expert evaluation system was established. C++computer editor language editing software and VC++the program editing software as tool to completed the expert evaluation system, finally successful implemented Hui’an women’s jacket fabric comfort expert evaluation system. |
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