Study On The Seam Strength Of Chiffon Fabric

With social economic development and improvement of standard of living, more and more people emphasize the quality of garment. For apparel enterprises, improving the quality control of seam is beneficial to improving the quality of garment. And the quality of seam is mainly embodied in seam strength. Chiffon posses the properties of soft, slippery, air permeability and easy care, comfortable and drape well; it has been used widely in spring and summer fashions. But on the other hand, its thin fabric and smooth yarn lower the seam strength, and reduce the lifespan of the garment. The seam strength of chiffon fabric was chosen as the major object of this paper. The influences of fabric structure parameters and sewing processing parameters on the seam strength were analyzed, and suggestions combined with actual production of garment were proposed to the garment production techniques.The basic parameters and tensile properties of12types of frequently-used chiffon fabrics were tested. Orthogonal experimental method was taken to analysis the relationship between stitch density and seam strength, sewing needle and seam strength, sewing thread and seam strength. Since the direction of seam lines such as shoulder and side parallel to warp, the extensional direction in the experiment was the weft direction.The results of range analysis and variance analysis show that:(1) The seam failure form of fabric is stitch slippage when the friction between warp and weft is small, the stitch density is the most significant impact factor on seam strength of this kind of chiffon fabric, and the seam strength is negative correlated with stitch density.(2) The seam failure form of fabric is sewing thread breaking when the strength of fabric and the friction between warp and weft is large, the fineness of sewing thread is the most significant impact factor on seam strength of this kind of chiffon fabric, and the seam strength is positive correlated with stitch density and fineness of sewing thread.(3) The impact of three kinds of sewing processing parameters on seam strength is insignificant when the seam failure is caused by the breaking of weft yarns, and the seam strength depended on the fabric properties. In addition, owing to the loose structure of chiffon fabric, the impact of sewing needle on seam strength is insignificant.The experiment found that the seam failure form of fabric was different, and the measurement of seam strength was the seam slippage value when the seam failure was caused by breaking of fabric. The elongation at specified load of the testing original fabric and the stitching sample were tested, and the difference value of them was the seam slippage value. The result of correlation show that there’s a negative relationship between the seam slippage value and the tightness of warp direction, the seam slippage value and the cover tightness, the seam slippage value and the areal density, the seam slippage value and the strength of fabric in weft direction. Therefore, in the course of fashion design, the designer should give full consideration to the structure and property of fabric, and make sure the ease allowance in garment to be designed reasonably.