Compatibility Study Of Fabric Properties And Sewing Conditions Based On The Smoothness Of Zipper Sewing

Zipper and fabric stitch easily come along the length of the sewing thread shrinkage, uneven,offset askew, such as sewing crumple phenomenon,which is the main factor that influences the quality of the clothing, used to describe the zipper and zipper sewing smoothness of this sewing shrink phenomenon and degree. With the emergence and development of the zipper, zipper used in clothing are becoming more and more widely, the fanciful and the functional applications of the resulting zipper and fabric stitch direction along the suture after sewing shrinkage problem, and garment enterprises in choosing a sewing conditions completely with the personal experience in lack of accuracy and certainty, therefore, the research of zipper sewing flatness, raise the overall quality of the clothing is of great significance. Physical and mechanical properties of fabrics and sewing conditions are the main factors influencing the zipper sewing smoothness, summarizing predecessors’ research results found that have an effect on seam smoothness conditions including machine sewing needle shape, sewing thread tension and stitch density, sewing speed, presser foot pressure, etc.; Have an effect on seam smoothness of the fabric mechanical properties are mainly tensile elongation and bending rigidity, shear rigidity, surface roughness and surface friction coefficient, etc.Based on zipper as the research object, this paper choose the most common cotton silk wool fabric, selection of sewing thread tension and stitch density and pressure of the presser foot, feed dog, altitude, speed, sewing machine needle shape for sewing conditions, through the mixed orthogonal experiment design, looking for fabrics of different optimal zipper sewing conditions,analysis of material mechanical properties and the relationship between the optimal conditions of sewing, in order to provide reference for clothing enterprises to choose zipper sewing conditions and reference, to improve the quality of zipper sewing technology and produce high-grade clothing. The main contents are as follows:1. Measurement, physical and mechanical properties of the fabric and through preliminary experiment and selection of literature has a significant effect on zipper sewing crumple sewing process parameters, application of sewing experiment mixed orthogonal test design. Measuring and calculating sample sewing seam shrinkage, and subjective evaluation to sewing specimen.2. The subjective and objective assessment results are scatter plot, poor, variance analysis andrelated chart. By a scatter diagram analysis various subjective and objective evaluation index as the change of process parameters of the fabric and change trend of figure; Scatter plot and variance analysis the sewing on the impact of process parameters on fabric subjective and objective evaluation index of significance; Combined with analysis of variance by the poor in the overall balance method to calculate the best process parameters of the fabric.3. On physical and mechanical properties of fabric and zipper, we analyze the optimal process parameters of the extracted correlation high mechanical performance index by the fabric.4. Through the clustering analysis will be the best process parameters of the cluster grouping,representative and has the obvious difference of optimal process parameters of the cluster grouping. Best sewing process parameters through discriminant function research of cluster grouping relationships with high correlation between mechanical properties of fabric, based on the fabric performance as independent variable, zipper sewing process parameters optimum cluster grouping model for the prediction of the dependent variable.This topic found that mechanical properties of fabric and zipper sewing process parameters are closely related, but the prediction model established between the two. For the zipper sewing shrink mechanism for the formation of wrinkles and sewing process parameter optimization provides the theory basis; For clothing enterprises in the reasonable choice of zipper sewing process parameters, so it can help clothing enterprises improve the quality of clothing.