The Study On The Effect Of Sewing Process Parameters On Sewing Pucker Of The Lightweight Silk-tvpe Fabric

Seam pucker refers to the phenomenon that after sewing the length of the fabric becomes longer or shorter along sewing thread, the fabric becomes wrinkle and uneven; which is the main reason that influences the quality of garments. The lightweight silk-type fabric after sewing is easy to crumple, especially on warp direction. In order to improve the quality of the silk garments, we are urgent to carry out the study on the effect of properties of fabric and sewing process parameters on seam pucker.Mechanical properties of fabric and sewing process parameters are the main factors which influence the seam pucker. Scholars studied the effect of mechanical properties of fabric and sewing process parameters on seam pucker, found that sewing process parameters affecting seam pucker included mechanical properties and fineness of sewing thread, the tension of sewing thread, stitch density, needle, the sewing speed and so on; and mechanical properties of fabric affecting seam pucker included T, B, G, F, SMD and MIU, MMD etc.In order to solve the problem of uneasy to choose sewing process parameters for lightweight silk-type fabric in factory. This paper cheese lightweight silk-type fabric as object, and cheese the tension of sewing thread, stitch density, sewing thread and the tension on fabric as sewing process parameters, through the orthogonal experiment design, to study the relationship between the mechanical properties of fabric and sewing process parameters. The main contents are as follows:1. This paper selected23kinds of common fabric, including plain weave and Satin weave fabric.At the same time we used the FAST and KES to test key indicators under low load:T, B, G, F, SMD and MIU, MMD,etc. This paper cheese the tension of sewing thread, stitch density, sewing thread and the tension on fabric as sewing process parameters for sewing experiment. And we studied the sewing smoothness from the objective and subjective evaluation. Then we inspected the measurement result’s reliability and relatively calculated the measurement result.2. We used scatter diagram、poor、variance and related chart to analyze the subjective and objective assessment results. We used scatter diagram to analyze the correlation between subjective and objective indicators, and combined scatter diagram with tendency chart to analyze plain、satin fabric’s subjective and objective indicators’change with the sewing process parameters change, then combined scatter diagram with variance to analyze the significance of each sewing process parameters, at last we used comprehensive balance method to get the best sewing process parameters of the23kinds of fabric.3. We used clustering analysis to classify the best sewing process parameters of23kinds of fabric, and got4cluster groups of best sewing process parameters.4. We used correlation analysis to analyze the relationship between mechanical properties of fabric and the best sewing process parameters, extracted7mechanical properties of fabric on warp direction, which were X6(under0.916P, thickness of the fabric)、X7(under981Pa, thickness of the fabric)、X8(thickness of the fabric surface)、 X12(G,on warp direction)、X13(EMT, on warp direction)、X14(B,on warp direction)、 X15(WT, on warp direction). Xg (thickness of the fabric surface) was excluded through discriminant analysis, at last we established discriminant function prediction model between the rest6mechanical properties of fabrics and cluster groups of the best sewing process parameters.This topic found:Mechanical properties of lightweight silk-type fabric on is closely related to the sewing process parameters, so we can establish prediction model between them. And the prediction model provides theory basis for both Seam pucker formation mechanism and optimization of sewing process parameters; which is useful for clothing enterprises to choose sewing process parameters reasonably during production, so it can help clothing enterprises to improve their quality of garments.