Research For The Method Of Women’s Chest, Waist And Hip Measurements Breakdown

In the filed of women’s structural design, the measurement of chest, waist and hip aremost important, it’s not only determine the shape of the side seam directly, but alsodetermine the dart distribution of whole garment, it will be have a huge impact for thestructure of the garment design. Therefore, for different garment styles and productionprocess required, a reasonable measurements program is the most important issue inwomen’s structural design area.After long－time technical work practices and business research, we found thatpeople lack of sufficient knowledge of the measurement, affected by the traditionalexperience factors or absence of an accurate grasp in allocation method of chest, waistand hip, structural design work always do not go smoothly, resulting in seriousstructural problem, process problem and modeling problem, especial for the complexstyle, difficult workmanship, high pattern required and different aesthetic view point,leading to serious situation of change pattern repeatedly.In view of this situation, this thesis mainly explores and research following aspects.i. Due to the different posture and aesthetic standard, the side seam lines form isdifferent also. According to our needs, we will use the way of optical illusion andproportion changed when we distribute the measurements, so as to get different sideseam design solutions.ii. Women’s chest, waist and hip measurements breakdown which in the front andback involve to the dart allocation breakdown. It has a determining role on the shapeof this part. The thesis established a mathematical relationship model between themeasurement of chest, waist and hip and dart distribution, achieved the transformationof a variety of side seam design and dart allocated for the accurate calculation of thecircumference allocation.iv. In the thesis, I analysis the relationship between different method of sewing andironing way and the measurement of chest, waist and hip in women’s structural designiiv. Finally, the thesis summarized the main factors of women’s measurementsallocation, and analysis the relationship between clothing structure, side seam formand clothing technology.I developed side seam design methods which correspond with clothing structureprinciple and measurements calculation solution base on different side seam modelingclothing technology condition.