Research On Pilling Characteristic Of Variable Cashmere Fabrics

The study on variable cashmere of pilling is a worldwide problem.Variablecashmere fiber is more and more, especially the content of long fiber and dimorphicfiber have increased, the study of the cashmere’s pilling performance more complexdue to the influence of subjective and objective factors in the environment, nutrition,genetics, rearing methods, and difficulties. This paper systematically studies thevariable cashmere fiber crimp characteristics and crimp elasticity performance;variable cashmere yarn morphology, properties and hairiness distributioncharacteristics; variable cashmere sweater surface fuzzing (bright fiber, coiled fiber,fine tip fiber) and pilling (the shape of the fiber group, the group area alignmentcurve, fiber group coverage, clusters of fibers, fiber group closely entangled structure,the fiber diameter distribution of fiber groups). It summarized the variation ofcashmere products pilling features.Variable cashmere fiber crimp properties. Cashmere fiber’s crimp performancevariation is small. Other fibers (long fiber, dimorphic fiber, hirsute) have differentvariation.The distribution characteristics of variable cashmere yarn hairiness. In thevariable cashmere yarn, the coiled fiber height varied from0~1mm, the fine tip fiberlength varied from1~3mm, the number of coiled fiber in0~1mm are2~3times forthe number in1~2mm, and are mainly concentrated in the range of0~2mm; fine tipfiber length mainly concentrated in the range of0~4mm.The research discussed the bright fiber of the variable cashmere sweater woolfiber surface on the length, cavity structure, fineness distribution; coiled fibre heightdistribution; fine tip fiber length distribution; the compression performance ofcashmere sweater. Conclusions are drawn as follows: bright fiber length mainlyconcentrated in the14.19~20.13mm. Punctate medullary cavity and continuousmedullary cavity structure of the bright hair fiber sum(44~64) vast than unmyelinatedcavity structure bright fiber(11~16). On the other hand, this also confirms the brighthair fiber is dimorphic fiber; bright hair fiber diameter are mainly distributed in therange of29.71mm~42.56um.In the range of40~60um also has a small amount of light hair fiber. There are very few bright wool fiber diameter below20um and60um above.Coiled fiber height distribution is like unimodal shape. Coiled fibre highly prevalentat a concentration of1.5~1.8mm interval, as the height increases and fiber numberdecreased obviously. In the interval0~1mm especially closer to cashmere sweatersurface, the number of coiled fiber is increasing; cashmere fine tip fiber lengthdistribution with coiled fiber height distribution similar to present unimodal shape.There are many fine tip fibers (54%~82%) in0~3mm interval.The research disused the fiber ball in variable cashmere sweater surface:clusters of fibers projected area, shape features, the elastic degree of fiber ball andfiber diameter and the fiber diameter maximum value, minimum value distribution infiber ball.1#cashmere sweater surface fiber clusters average projected area is about1.57mm2;2#cashmere sweater surface fiber clusters average projected area is about2.29mm2;3#cashmere sweater surface fiber clusters average projected area is about2.88mm2;4#cashmere sweater surface fiber clusters average projected area is about1.86mm2. The size alignment curve of the fiber ball agglomerations curveapproximates a logarithmic curve. For the incorporation of fiber ball shape, variablecashmere sweater surface fiber clusters generally can be divided into: bar-type, S form,gourd-shaped, rod-form and oval. The shape of the fiber agglomerations mainly tooval (80%~70%), S-shaped fiber agglomerations (10%~20%) also has a content ofmore. For fiber ball’s close degree, is divided into1,2,3three level. Level1representatives of loose, level2representatives of close, level3representatives ofvery close.,43.75%of1#variable cashmere sweater fiber group is level2and level3,40%~60%of2#,3#,4#variable cashmere sweater fiber group is level1and level2.The maximum diameter of the fibers of each fiber group were below40um, mostof the the most coarse fiber diameter of each fiber agglomerations above18um. Thisrange is a section of the fine fibers, and two of the two type fibers. As a result of theserough straight fibers generally the fiber groups oriented fibers, fiber groups orientedfiber for some two fine fibers and two types of fiber. The entangled fibers in fibergroup mainly by cashmere fibers and some variation in14um following fiber fineness.The surface fiber balls, which contain long fiber occupies13.04%~41.54%.