Research On Compatibility Of Men’s Suits Shell Fabrics And Accessory-Fusible Interlinings

As for men’s formal clothing, suits have taken for international symbolic clothing.200years gone by, it is still booming and has become common guidance clothing at public placesin the international community. With the diversification of apparel development, consumerseeking personalized, functional, when one choose a suits, not only attach importance to thechoice of material of shell fabric, also the choice of auxiliary material, especially thecompatibility of shell fabric and interlining gains same attention. Fusible interlining is animportant part of suits, the relation between suits and linings like a building with beams,columns, doors and windows; we can see its importance.At present, the selection of fusible interlining in garment enterprises mainly decide byexperience or repeated bonding experiments. They mostly focused on traditional shell fabricsand interlinings to suit each other with little compatibility research of market popular leisuresuits shell fabric and interlinings. Therefore, this article choose common suits fabric wool,wool-polyester and leisure suits shell fabrics, cotton, cotton-linen, linen totally five classesshell fabric and six classes Double-Point Fusible Interlining to analysis the compatibility.First, in this article, the three main effect factor bonding time, temperature, pressure bymeans of orthogonal experimental design, for any combination of shell fabrics andinterlinings is process by hot pressure bonding, each obtained combination specimens is carrythrough test of peel strength, size rate of change (shrink rate, washing shrinkage, dry cleaningshrinkage) and the appearance quality evaluation (washing appearance, dry cleaningappearance), hence, optimized hot pressing bonding process for each combination areacquired. Analysis of optimal process for each shell fabrics with fusible interlining bondinghot pressing gives the optimal process conclusion of wool, wool-polyester, cotton,cotton-linen, linen shell fabrics with every fusible interlining are concentrated in No.3, No.7,No.9, No.5, and No.4. Experimental data shows that wool fabric not suitable for washing;wool-polyester fabric and fusible interlining have better compatibility performance; cottonfabric shrinkage rate slightly higher, but it has good performance at compatibility of peelstrength and appearance quality evaluation; bonding hot processing compound of cotton-linenfabrics and non-woven fabric warp-direction shrinkage is too large after washing, yet itscompatibility of peel strength and appearance quality evaluation is decent; bonding hotprocessing compound of linen fabrics and fusible interlining with low peel strength values,appearance quality evaluation is ordinary, so the compatibility performance of linen fabric and fusible interlining is poor.Then, this article select the optimal hot pressure bonding process for each combination ofshell fabrics and interlining, the resulting combination sample are conducted by KES fabricstyle test. Concluded that: wool fabrics have good recovery performance after bending anddistortion, smooth surface; wool-polyester fabric with better anti-stretch feature, but poorbulkiness; cotton fabrics have better ability to resist shear deformation, bending resilience ispoor, but better bulkiness; cotton-linen have better ability to resist shear resilience; pure linenfabrics have better ability to resist shear deformation, feel more thick, rough surface.Comparing with shell fabrics style, fusible interlining style has better elastic, poor ability toresist shear deformation, shear resilience is better, bending stiffness is lower, and more soft,good elasticity, rough surface. Comparing with shell fabric without adhesive fusibleinterlining, compound shell fabric and fusible interlining have lower flexibility variation intensile properties, the shear resilience is poorer in the shear capacity, deformationperformance is better in the ability of bending, but flexibility and bulkiness is lower in thecompression performance, surface smooth performance slightly better in the smooth surfacefriction aspect. Composites of shell fabrics and fusible interlining have better bendingproperties, more smooth surface, which play a positive role to the suits modeling.Finally, by using BP neural network modeling method, on MATLAB software, thisarticle build compatibility model of shell fabrics, respectively are wool, wool-polyester,cotton, cotton-linen, linen and fusible interlinings from two aspects, that is specifications,performance parameters and mechanical, physical properties of compound. At the same time,using linear regression analysis method from specifications and mechanical performance ofcomposite of shell fabrics and fusible interlining fabrics to establish corresponding tensileproperties, shear properties, bending properties, compression properties, surface frictionmodel of performance-related indicators of compatibility. Derived from this suits fabric andfusible interlining compatibility relational model, it will provide guidance, learning andreference information of reasonable selection of fusible interlining for the garmententerprises.