The Study On Influence Of Chest Interlinings On The Shape Of Men's Suits

With the development of people's life, higher quality of garments is required especially on men's suits which play an important role in our social life. People are also paying more and more attention to interlinings. In previous studies, the compatibility. of interlinings and fabrics has caught much attention, but on chest interlinings there are only introductions about how to use and how to make up them, although they affect suits' shape so much.In order to improve the quality of garments in China and make use of interlinings scientifically and reasonably, The Science and Technology Department of Zhejiang province set up the research project, "Study on the functions of interlinings in garments", which was cooperated by Ningbo Yak Technology Industry CO.LTD and Institute of Design of Donghua University. The research of this dissertation has played an important role in the project. The theoretical and practical significance of the dissertation has been proved.In this dissertation, 10 kinds of fabrics, 35 kinds of interlinings and 11 kinds of chest interlinings with different structure were selected; 26 kinds of single chest interlining were collected; 54 sets of chest interlinings and 39 pieces of men's suits were finally sewed in Yak and Younger suits factory, which have provided professional tailor ability. Finally, more than 2000 sets of data were obtained which composed of KES system tests on chest interlinings and subjective tests on suits. The main contributions were foliowings:(1) Establishing the best data range of KES system test on single chest interlining. Through Cluster Analysis, all samples were divided into 3 sorts; then subjective tests were held to clarify if the division was right. Finally the best data range of KES system test on single chest interlining was obtained(2) An evaluating model to classify single chest interlinings was built. After establishing the best data range, Discriminate Analysis was held and the model was obtained. Through the model, an interlining would be classified quickly; a lot of time would be saved to work more efficiently.(3) A model to judge whether chest interlinings fit suits welbwas built. Through Cluster Analysis and Discriminate Analysis on subjective data, the model was obtained through which the shape of suits could be judged.This project was programmed with the help of interlining manufactories and suits manufactories. This mode of research contributed to enhancing information communication and technical cooperation efficiently between interlining manufactories and suits manufactories. It also promoted development of both garment industry and interlining industry. The results have provided valuable conferences with factories.