Influence Of Vertical Line On Clothing Appearance And Fit

Along with the improvement of living standard, the clothing appearance gets more and more recognition besides the garment fit. Excellent garment pattern should not only meet the size requirements, but also should modify deficiency of human body. Only by this way, the garment can take on exquisite apparel modeling, and combine the garment aesthetic and fit. And the vertical line, which has great meaning for clothing, is the main factor of fashion design. Relying on the structure design,as well as taking its formal beauty as the way of expression, the vertical line combines the functionality and the decoration. And it plays an important role on the garment modeling.In the paper, collar female suit with different structure was selected as object of the study.The objective is to combine the clothing fit and appearance to achieve the best performance. The vertical line was chose as the entry point. The main method is to combine the theoretical analysis and practical operation in order to explore the best scheme for vertical line setting, which would provide method to the garment enterprises for reference.At first,169female figure data aged from30to39in Shanghai and33measurement items were obtained. Through the basic data analysis we have a general idea of the size of women in Shanghai. Through principal component analysis, the difference between bust girth and waist girth, and the difference between front waist length and back waist length were selected as the standards to decide the type of body, and by k-means cluster analysis the body shape were divided into four kinds:X, P, C, O.Based on the four types, the three-dimensional wrl. data files obtained through [TC]2scanner of every body type were obtained. By standardizing the body data, the shape matrix of human body can be built. Obtain people’s characteristic matrix of an intermediate through the average of calculating characteristic matrix, take treatment obtain dress form intermediate characteristic matrix finally while being symmetrical. And the outer and the waist cross sections of the intermediates were extracted by AutoCAD. Specify center point and calculate the difference between the outer and the waist cross sections on corresponding parts in terms of sampling. And the vertical lines were setted by the difference and the garment style at the same time.According to the vertical line, the patterns were made based on different body type. Make clothes with white cloth and make three-dimensional correction to make the garment fit the body perfect. Radial ease allowance (Er) was selected as the evaluation index to verify the clothing fit.The appearance of the experimental samples was evaluated by subjective evaluation and objective evaluation. The result showed that:the garment of body type X was ideal while the sample garments of other three body types did not work to modified body. Therefore, further three-dimensional adjustment was made to make the garments beautify the body curve better.3*4experimental samples of the body type P, C,O were made the arrangement according to their fit and appearance with the fuzzy comprehensive evaluation. The results showed that:In case of the fit, the patterns before adjustment were better than the patterns after adjustment. In case of the appearance, the patterns after adjustment were better than the patterns before adjustment. When combining the fit and appearance, the pattern of four pieces after adjustment was the best, the pattern of four pieces before adjustment was the second, the pattern of three pieces after adjustment was the third, and the pattern of three pieces before adjustment was the last. The results showed that the method used in the experiment was useful and had practical significance.