Study On Set-in Sleeve Structure And Techniques For Warp Knitting Shaping Garment

The warp knitting shaping garment is produced by double needle-bar warp knittingjacquard machine in the form of full or half. Now, the research about warp knitting shapinggarment is mainly focusing on shaping method, pattern design and pressure comfort. Therehas not been research about sleeve techniques. The techniques of applying set-in sleeve inwarp knitting shaping garment will be firstly brought out in this thesis, and the theory ofstructure design will also be applied in techniques of set-in sleeve for warp knitting shapinggarment. This thesis revealed factors that influencing the set-in sleeve techniques according tothe weaving principle and method. In this thesis, techniques of set-in sleeve will be summedup, and an accurate method of controlling the size has formatted which would form a practicalprocess design system for set-in sleeve.This thesis first introduces the style and shaping theory of sleeves for warp knittingshaping garment. The techniques of applying set-in sleeve in warp knitting shaping garmentwill be brought out in analyzing current sleeve’s defects and causes of defects, and the theoryof set-in sleeve in warp knitting shaping garment will also be demonstrated in this thesis.Combined with factors that influencing paper design, the upper body characteristics will beanalyzed, and the techniques for designing body and sleeve prototype that fits technologicalprocess design will also be established. The thesis obtains the prototype template for set-insleeve in bmp format. The techniques of body and sleeve have definitely establishedaccording to process design principle and method. In this thesis, the quantitative relation ofset-in sleeve techniques basing on density and size would be released through measuring andanalyzing the density of nine kind of jacquard in the different stretching density, which wouldgive some guidance to the effective design of set-in sleeve techniques. Finally, it makes asubjective evaluation of the sleeve for the warp knitting shaping garment through the dressingexperiment and establishing subjective evaluation system.The research has achieved an effective connection of structure and techniques for warpknitting shaping garment. According to this thesis, the density is the main factor thatinfluencing the size of sleeve. The density is influenced by stretching density and jacquard.The course and wale density is getting bigger with the increase of stretching density. Thedensity of the fabric together with stretching density is highly related. With the samestretching density, the fabric’s density would change tighter with the change of jacquard. Thecourse density is increasing while the jacquard is getting thicker. The wale density of thinjacquard is bigger than the mesh and thick jacquard. The process parameter in differentstretching density will be quickly obtained depending on the jacquard. The relation betweenprocess parameter and course, wale density will be simplified as relation between processparameter and stretching density, which would simplify the process calculation. The thesis hasrealized an effective design of set-in sleeve techniques. Depending on the dressing experimentand subjective evaluation, set-in sleeve structure suits to the warp knitting shaping garment.The techniques improve the shape of sleeves and at the same time meet the demand forhuman motion. The study of the thesis enriches the theory and practice of current sleeve design systemand explores effective set-in sleeve techniques for warp knitting shaping garment. The resultsprovide feasible and scientific ideas for researching the sleeve theory. The research has bothacademic and practical value.