Study On Geneticanalysis To Spirality In Worsted Cashmere Single Knitwear And Its Control

People’s demand for comfort and appearance of textile have become higher and higher along with the improvement of living standards, especially to the cashmere which known as the“soft-gold”, it is great significant to control the cashmere product quality . The development of worsted knitwear cater to the market demanding, the market demanding on worsted cashmere knitwear has becoming more and more. However, the spirality problem of worsted cashmere knitwear has been plaguing corporation all along, and it is a key factor of affecting producing efficiency and product quality in the knitwear corporation. Base on above reasons, the topic use spirality in worsted cashmere knitwear as study object, in line with the principle of proceeding from reality. In this thesis, the evaluative system of the spirality is established, and yarn control standards of spirality is made, the genetic mechanism of spirality is analyzed systematically, as well as the affecting factors of spirality are made by comprehensive experimental study comparatively, and the control model of spirality is established.The subject is based on spirality in worsted cashmere single of line density as 14.70tex×3 and 20.83tex×2. Spirality is investigated through scientific experimental design.The research results show that spirality is caused by residual torsional stresses of yarn that mainly due to the imbalance on twist factor of single and ply yarn. So the twist factor must be kept balanced to solve the problem of spirality. In the thesis, the spirality is analyzed and controlled mainly in aspects of twist factor, raw materials, dyeing, yarn storage time, weaving and so on. Among them, twist factor ratio is the main factor of affecting spirality, and the relationship of twist factor ratio and spirality is a linear basically; the longer yarn stored, the better for the control of spirality, the optimal yarn storage time of yarn is 24h; the greater weaving density, the smaller the degree it is, the best weave density of 14.70tex×3 is 33.9 rows/5cm, the best weave density of 20.83tex×2 is 33.0 rows/5cm. The following conclusions have been concluded by correlative analysis in aspect of raw materials: the correlation between fiber fineness, fineness CV, length, length CV, the short fiber rate that length is less than 12.5mm, elongate with spirality is significant. Staining has effect on fiber quality. Therefore, re-combing products are chosen as the experimental target finally, and establishing equation between spirality （Y） with twist factor ratio （X1）, fineness （X2）, fineness CV （X3）, length （X4）, length CV （X5）, short fiber rate （X6） and elongate （X7）. Through regression analysis educing: The control model of 14.70tex×3 spitality is:Y = 115.139 - 59.879 X ₁ + 6.794 X ₂ + 1.308 X ₃ - 0.801 X ₄ + 0.234 X ₅ + 2.008 X ₆ - 43.037X7 The control model of 20.83tex×2 spirality is:Y = 120.015 - 71.361 X ₁ + 6.277 X ₂ - 1.577 X ₃ - 0.573 X ₄ + 0.652 X ₅ + 2.102 X ₆ - 31.616X7 The control model established provides gist and guidance for the control of spirality.