Study. Clothing Structural Design Techniques

There are two major methods in structure design of garment: proportional distribution and block. Proportional distribution is one method which is always used in China and block is another which is popular in developed nations. The most district difference between the two methods is method. The method of proportional distribution is based on garment and draft she pattern directly, but the method of block is based on human body: depending on the sizes of the body, firstly make the basic shape of adaptation of garment structure——block pattern, secondly, according to various designs and various fabric, add or cut up the structure lines of block pattern in order to get various designs.Different methods have different features and different merits and demerits. The followings are the merits of proportional distribution: adding tolerances before drafting the pattern is favorable for designers to control the ready-made clothes; concerning some stylized designs, the experienced formulas are so ripe and accurate that designers can adopt them quickly; etc. The followings are the demerits of proportional distribution: the proportions of ready-made clothes are changeable; formulas are tedious and uneasy to memory; almost all cutting lines are controlled by the formulas so that the space of design is lessened; relations between armhole curve and sleeve head curve are ignored that many ready-made clothes can't ensure a perfect fit at the armhole; etc. Block has the following merits: because of the block pattern which matches with human's bodies, designers not begin from the first step, but develop and adapt the block pattern according to different designs, without tedious calculation and dull memory, so the efficiency is raised a lot; block pays attention to the fit at the armhole and avoids the unmatched design fundamentally; etc. Block has the following demerits: overfull freedom in design and ignoring the tolerances of major parts will lead to big mistake; block varies with different bodies so that the design is inefficient for large-scale custom-tailor.In order to adapt the quick development in garment industry in our country, we can try to combine the two methods and develop a new flexible method in structure design of garment——flat combination. The key standpoint is: on the basis of , combining the tolerances of followings are the merits of proportional distribution, firstly design the size of the ready-made clothes, then adopt the block pattern and the theory of dart movement and get the final structure of the garment.