Structure Optimization Study Based On The Three-dimensional Shape Of The Basic Suit-dress Sleeve's Armhole

With the development of society, perfect clothing shapes and comfortable dress are being demanded higher and higher, while clothing structural optimization is one of the important issues which are to meet people's demand for high-quality clothing.For the clothing with basic suit-dress's sleeve, armhole is a combination of body parts and sleeves, and its morphological features and internal structure also affect the shape of body and the form of sleeves. A reasonable armhole is a authentication of apparel structure balance fitting the body and the perfect guarantee of sleeves'shape. However, due to the morphological features of armhole not showing directly and independently, the study on three-dimensional shape is more difficult, so this kind of research is also relatively less.In this paper, the analysis methods of a qualitative and quantitative combination was used to research the relationship between three-dimensional shape of armhole, which was our research key, and the apparel style,the sleeve style. On this basis, the structural optimization of the basic suit-dress's sleeve was probed into. Specific research was as follows:(1) The characterization of armhole's three-dimensional shape. First of all, the morphological characteristics of armhole were analyzed based on the prototype of armhole. The impact factor was extracted and the concept of three-dimensional shape was expounded:①The spatial location's key point of armhole was determined including shoulder point, chest width point, back width point and the underarm point.②The spatial relationship between armhole of apparel and arm circumference of human body was ensured.③The three-dimensional morphology of armhole's arc under the control of the spatial location's key point was made certain.(2) The study on the relationship between armhole's three-dimensional shape and body structure.16 clothes with different sizes of armhole complement were designed based on the changes of complement. The relationship between the allowance of front complement and back complement and the distribution law of them and characteristics of three-dimensional shape of the armhole were researched quantitatively; the relationship between three-dimensional shape of armhole and the balance of body structure was analyzed, which provided a basis to determine the armhole complement.(3) Study on the relationship between armhole's three-dimensional shape and the sleeve's shape and structural. The main factor impacting three-dimensional shape of armhole-the displacement of underarm point was as the starting point.18 clothing experiments was designed according to the change of vertical and horizontal displacement of underarm point. The form data of apparel's armhole and sleeve morphology index ware measured. The relevant mathematical model was established through the method of correlation analysis and regression analysis. The best match experiments for changes in 18 different forms of the underarm point was done, which was aimed at studying the relationship between morphological characteristics of armhole and the structures of sleeves and the relationship between the height and tilt angle of armhole and angular separation of the fitted shape of sleeve.(4) Study on the relationship between the three-dimensional shape of armhole and the style of the crown. The concept of the crown style was refined, which divided the crown style of suit-dress into three categories:pointed-long-shaped style, arc-shaped style and spherical style. Through the analysis of morphological data of armhole, a three-dimensional shape model of armhole and the structure model of the crown for the different styles of the crown were established.(5) Verification experiment. Structure model and its practical approach was aggregated, and model applied verification was carried out about integrated examples containing elements of all different styles.The paper was based on the combination of theoretical and experimental research. Experimental data was analyzed by SPSS software. Four relations mode establishment were as following:the relation mode between armhole complement and body structure; the relation mode between the horizontal change of underarm point and sleeve structure; the relation mode between the vertical change of underarm point and sleeve structure; the relation mode between different styles of the crown and three-Dimensional shape of the armhole. These models were tested by analysis of concrete examples and the production of clothing.