The Matching Research Of Relative Factors About The Cutting Shape Of Man's Suit Base On MTM

Facing the tide of informationization and digitization, how the basic clothing theory accommodate with the trend is a brand-new subject that scientific researcher and the clothing production enterprise is facing. It is chiefly studied in the thesis that the matching of material, pattern, technique about the cutting shape of man's suit, and also the digital discriminance.On the foundation of forefathers' research, four restriction conditions of body shape are illustrated. With three-dimensional character of the human body type, it's for the first time drew 24 structure characteristic parameters of man's trunk as well as the man's three-dimensional classification principle of body shape based on MTM, which makes any individual body type expressed by different sets of structure characteristic parameters accurately. Taking 301 samples in Central South district man as exemple and combining with man's three-dimensional classification principle of body shape, the 24 structure characteristic parameters are set into seven parts, which realizes the digital discriminance of man's trunk in Central South. On the foundation, the thesis also analyzed the typical body shape and overall characteristic of the man's in Central South, and find out the detail spec of the standard shape.Keeping the cutting shape is the basic requirements of clothing pattern design, which involves the processing of complement. It is also analyze in the thesis that the allowance of front complement and back complement and the distribution law of them by way of three-dimensional cutting.Compared with the women's clothing, the structural design method of menswear is not so various and complicated, but the requirement of fitting is higher. The structure method is the key way to deal with the complement allowance. The digital of structure technology is relatively ripe, but still depends on experience a lot. The thesis analysed the main structure method of keeping cutting shape.Formality of material means the fitting degree of the ability of flat fabric changing into three-dimensional garment. Taking six abas mainly containing polyester and wool as exemple, it's tested in the thesis that basic parameters of fiber ingredient, fabric structure, thickness, weight, thinness, and the mechanics performance in low stress measured by KES-F. By analyzing the result, the thesis discriminates the material TAV by digital and gets the TAV of six abas. Combining with the fabric field of high quality, this thesis analyzed the TAV of six fabrics. The thesis also discusses the relativity between basic parameters and the three aspects of Formality in curved modelling Z₁, elasticity Z₂, dangling Z₃. In additional, it discusses the relativity between basic parameters and Locked Press Shrinkage, providing theoretic supports for abas pretreatment.Technical crinkling is the important means to deal with complement allowance, and is the important way of sewing technique. The factor sinfluences the max crinke rate mostly are basic parameters and results of KES-F. The thesis analyzed statistically the relativity between overall parameters of six fabrics and MC , providing theoretic supports for technique operations by digital.