Study On Knitting Process And Thermal-wet Comfort Of Single Weft Knitting Plated Fabric

The plating theory, knitting process and thermal-wet comfort of single plated fabric are discussed in this paper through theoretical analysis and experiments.The relative position of ground yarn and plating yarn in the hook is controlled by the yarns carrier, namely, it is determined by the vertical carrying angle and horizontal carrying angle. Whether this relative position can be maintained in the knitting process or the designer's purpose can be obtained is effected by a series of factors such as tension of yarns, friction of yarns, vibration of machinery and so on.Through designing a new three-dimensional adjustable yarn carrier, the experiments are carried out on the small and large diameter circular knitting machine respectively. Then we synthesize the intuitionistic appraisement of the fabric and the microcosmic appraisement of the fabric. At last the rule of optimal lapping angle position which can ensure the good plating quality can be derived.Meanwhile, in the experiment process, we can also find an important factor that affects the plating quality, which is the count and lubricity performance of yarns. Usually, the thicker of the plating yarns, the better plating effect can be obtained; the better lubricity performance of yarns, the easier for the yarns to rotate, and then the yarns can be correctly collocated according to the vertical and horizontal lapping angle.Applying the new three-dimensional adjustable yarn carrier to the small diameter circular knitting machine, we can find that the density of the fabric is closely related to the stitch depth. On the basis of it, the change of the stitch depth brought by the movement of the drop cam is discussed through the method of geometrical analysis. The effect on the plating effect by the fabric density is also discussed in this paper.Adopting above lapping angle position rules, the single-faced weft plating effect plated fabrics with different plating effects are knitted on the small diameter single circular knitting machine. In this paper, we select ordinary polyester fiber, Coolmax and another kind of profiled moisture transported polyester fiber as the ground yarns, and the colored cotton mixed with 50% brown cotton and 50%Tencel as the plating yarns. The fabrics with three different densities and two plating effects are knitted on the small diameter single circular knitting machine. The thermal-wet comfort of above fabrics are appraised from following three aspects: moisture transportation, moisture permeability and air permeability , and the experiments have testified that good plating effect, perfect material and the reasonable structure and density of the fabric are the guarantee of the good thermal-wet comfort. Meanwhile, it has been proved by experimental results that Coolmax has fine moisture transmitting property, which means that it is the easiest and better method to develop the functional fabric with cool and comfort properties through changing the shape of spinneret hole and section of the fibers.In terms of the situation that the hold line of old loops is a curve in the practical knitting process of circular knitting machine, differently from the traditional theories, the paper calculates the horizontal carrying angle with the tangent of the midpoint of curve formed by rotating the line connecting yarn carrier and the center of the cylinder, which is more practical than using the tangent of the knitting point. Using the new method, the paper educes the following equations:Then the paper analyzes the effect of R andφon b₀, and the effect of R,φandα₀ on b₁ . By means of the Matlab software process, the intuitionistic figures can be seen clearly. According to the figures, the range of b₀ can be received from the range of R andφ, the range of b₁ can also be received.At last, the paper also do some research on the yarn track while plating fabric is knitted on the circular knitting machine, and whether there exist a big interface on the small diameter circular knitting machine between the yarns from the feeder hole to the cylinder. New designed three-dimensional adjustable carrier improves the precision of the result, which is more practical.