| With the improvement of people's living standard, it has been more and more concerned about visual style and appearance value of fabrics.The importance of luster is particularly appered in the visual area of the fabric. Therefore, it has important theoretical meaning and functional worth to carry out the study on the luster of fabrics.First of all, the characteristic index on luster, the wave range, the experimental instrument, the method of test and the judgement from fabric luster were explained. In addition, the relationship has been studied systematically, between the luster of woven fabric and its specification factor, with the stitch structer and the character of raw material. And then, the comprehensive evaluation was analysed in the lusteral character of some typical fabric, such as cotton, hemp, silk and wool. At the same time, a fiber with unique luster has been used to expound the reason of this unique luster in practice, and the influence on the luster of the angle in the test has been explored originally. Major works and conclusions are as followed:(1) The regular reflection and diffuse reflection cannot be differentiated by spectrophotometic measurement and integrating sphere measurement, therefore the lustrousness cannot be either. For this reason, lustrousness measurement has been raised, which is operated simply and is calculated conveniently. The characteristic index on luster can be tested and characterized intuitionisticly by this measurement.The major characteristic index includes R,GS,GR,GC,∑G and ?G.(2) When the warp and the weft are the same, the longer float is, the better luster is. The luster of fabric with face and line pattern is better than fabric with point pattern. The point pattern is appropriate to set a better diffuse reflection. The intensity of regular reflection and lustrousness of fabric with line pattern changes obviously when the angle changes.(3) When the warp and the weft are the same and nothing changes without density, the tightness has good liner relationship with luster, which decreases when tightness increases.For one thing, if only one of the warp sett and weft count changes, luster will decrease with float density increasing.For another, if both the warp sett and weft count change and they all increase, luster will decrease with float density increasing. If one of the two densities increases but the other decreases, as well as the product of the two densities increases and tightness also increases,luster will decrease with float density. If the product decreases but tightness increases, luster will increase with float density increasing.(4) When the warp and the weft are different, only the stitch structure changing, the tightness of fabric has no relationship with luster. At this time, the float density has good linear relation with GS,∑G and△G. The more float density of some yarn appears on the surface, the more lucidus character of this yarn appears.In addition,GS,∑G and△G increase. This principle can be followed in practice.(5) The reason and character of some fabric luster has been analyzed, such as cotton-type, worsted-type, silk-type and yarn-type. The result shows that luster of fabric is affected by the character of raw material, the fineness of raw material, tightness of fabric, woolen or worsted,and so on. The luster of fabric is best when the planeness of fabric is in the groove. The index of luster has been sumed up and estimated to some fabric with different raw matierals by regression analysis and fuzzy judgement.The result is that silk and spinning have the best luster ,but the wollen fabric has the worst luster.(6) A fiber named Morphotex has been used to expound its reason of good luster. And then some woven samples have been used to study the function of stitch structer and the character of raw material on the luster.The result shows that the two factors play a important role in luster index.At the same time, the luster of Mophotex changes clearly when the test angle changes. That is why Mophotex can cause flash effect. |
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