| Taking middle and late period of the modern times(1912-1937)as the main time node and JiangZheHu region as the focused area,this study reveals the characteristics of cheongsam textile design evolution in the era of modern and the impact on modern textile design through research on the relationship between design,technology,variety,style,and consumption.Based on the collection,analysis,and combing of historical materials and historical documents,“design concepts”carried by microscopic design results and design events has been reduced from a multidisciplinary perspective and interpreted in the context of macroscopic historical narratives and broad social.The full text consists of 6 chapters,more than 200,000words,and 1,000 illustrations.The cheongsam is a typical representative of modern women’s fashion,and is the carrier that can best reflect the level of modern fabric design and popular characteristics.The fabric used in modern cheongsam is also a typical miniature of the textile design results at that time.Firstly,this article summarizes the evolution process of modern cheongsam fabric design from traditional to modern from the perspectives of social changes,consumption patterns,cultural forms,and fashion communication methods.And based on the collection of near 500 pieces modern Cheongsam fabric and historical literature and considering both passive reception and initiative reactivation of material,technology and variety,the innovation of traditional cotton,silk,printing and dyeing,embroidery,lace and so on,as well as many cases of JiangZheHu region and enterprise developments,has been discussed in the fusion of Chinese and Western cultures.Additionally,relying on large amount images of Cheongsam fabric art reflected in the month cards,classic patterns of modern Cheongsam as a prototype,the pattern design have been restored to quadrilateral continuity selectively.On this basis,the relationship between the Shanghai culture and the development of Cheongsam fabric art,together with the influence of"Western rain and American wind"on the evolution of design theme,colour concept and art forms of Cheongsam fabric art have also been analysed.Finally,grounded on comparative study of literatures,images and dress patterns from living images of Cheongsam fabric art presented in papers and magazines,the vertically guiding role of modern medias and fashionable women in the development of modern Cheongsam fabric art have been evaluated.At the same time,the style characteristics of women in different tiers of JiangZheHu region in the consumption of cheongsam fabrics were organized,analysed,and interpreted from the view of iconography,which aims to fill in some of the missing areas of this research area.In this study,the time-based research mode of traditional art and craft history has been abandoned.From the three major aspects of handed down material objects,old Shanghai month cards images,and historical image documents,the research emphasis is focused on the impact of technological revolution,new raw materials,production methods,consumer demand and daily life on the development of design ideology.While constructing the modern Cheongsam fabric design database,underlying social,economic,and cultural reasons of why the modern Cheongsam fabric design showed its richness and diversity as well as superficial,rough,ambiguous,mixed characteristics and lack of complete system has been emphatically explored.At the same time,the conflicts and integration between Chinese traditional culture and Western culture reflected by commonness and individuality in the design of Cheongsam fabrics as well as the interactive relation and differences between various areas have also been evaluated.Therefore,from historical perspective and the viewpoint of the speak right of the public,how the political,economic,cultural development,and lifestyle changes participated in mass consumption and influenced the history of the development of fabric art has been revealed.The methodology of this study is mainly based on the theoretical framework of iconography,textual research,design research,typology,regional economics,textile science and other aspects.In the vertical level,taking the relationship of modern lifestyle and culture transition of JiangZheHu region as a viewpoint,setting the modern progress of modern Chinese,as well as traditional culture as the humanistic background,this study reveals various cultural phenomenon and consumption value changes and the impact of modern design which appeared and reserved in the process of development and evolution of Cheongsam fabric art.In the horizontal level,through contrasting and interpreting between collected fabric art antique and month cards,together with newspapers,magazines,old photos,local chronicles and other historical data,this study has attempted to restore the historical context~1 and transmission route of modern cheongsam fabric design,and explored the design features and cultural and aesthetic values of the cheongsam fabric in multiple dimensions from the composition of the overall social and cultural background while attaching importance to the historical pattern of the case.A reflective,exploratory study of modern Cheongsam fabric design from the perspective of socioculturalism and mass consumerism is not only a re-understanding of the contribution and the limitations of the times of modern fabric design,but also a promotion of textile design and modern design history.This can also serve as a reference and promoting effect for the development of China modern textile design in the process of continuous conflict and integration between traditional culture and Western culture. |
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