In this paper,the study object is the purple color of Chinese clothing in traditional era(natural dyeing age).A systematic,interdisciplinary research and analysis is on a single color series in five aspects,including the name of purple color series,purple culture and color regulations,popularity of purple,traditional dyeing technology of purple,traditional color design Characteristics of purple.The Study on Purple series of color regulations are through a wide range of literature search,and analyzed from the perspective of linguistics and history.Study of traditional Purple dyeing is based on collecting and organizing the historical material of important traditional plant purple dye stuffs and dyeing methods,by series of dyeing experiments to get the corresponding color data and analysis the historical dyeing and application of purple color.The culture,color regulations,cultural exportation of Purple are mainly studied by literature research.Collected and compared according to the historical context,and analyzed the application of purple through past dynasties’ to extract the impact of social thoughts and other factors on the purple culture.The research of traditional design in Purple are based on the analysis of color in textile relics samples,to summed up the design style of traditional purple color.The main conclusion of this paper is that purple is a color with paradoxical Symbolism in ancient China.The nature worship of Han nationality and Taoist culture respected purple,purple had been regarded as a symbol of the most noble existence in universe,and designed a series of purple totem;However,Confucian gave color the ethical evaluation and grade,which formed the concept of primary color(good color)and secondary color(evil color).They regarded purple as a color which will take away the status of red,giving it a negative meaning.In the evolution of clothing in thousands years,the rise and fall of this two values led to the changes of purple phenomenon in clothing.The neighboring countries such as Japan,the Korean Peninsula also gained great influence during China’s purple culture flourishing period,forming the export of purple culture.Chinese traditional purple color dyeing materials were mainly composed of puccoon,Sappanwood,indigo,safflower,etc.,each dye has its corresponding hue,dyeing technology.The economic value of dyes in deferent era reflected the changes of purple look. |