Development Of "Empowering" Cosmetics Based On Unit Delivery System

Bletilla striata is a kind of traditional Chinese herbal medicine in China.Bletilla striata gum in bletilla striata is a kind of substance that can be used as suspension and emulsifier.Bletilla striata has a good scavenging effect on free radicals,and its scave nging activity is higher than vitamin E.Bletilla striata can be used to whitenand light spots,delay skin aging and nourish skin,without any toxicity and irritation to skin.Co rtex dictamni dasycarpus dry root bark of rutaceae plants,research shows that cortex dictamni has anti-inflammatory,antibacterial,antioxidant,clinically used to treat a var iety of skin diseases,cortex dictamni extract can against candida albicans in vitro,the ancient common cortex dictamni with different compatibility of traditional chinese me dicine to treat disease.Tremella fuciformis also known as“plant hyaluronic acid”,is a natural biological macromolecule that has antioxidant and skin-improving properties.This study bletilla striata,cortex dictamni,tremella as main bioactive materialsfor the extraction of effective components of polysaccharide,the three are richin polysacchar ide extract respectively pass release system as an independentunit,and the preparation of the compound essence,gives the product moisture,oxidation resistance and whiten ing three functions,and probes into the quality evaluation system of research,it provi des theoretical basis for the futureapplicationof natural plants in skin care products.T he research methods and main resultsare as follows:1.FTIR analysis of tremella fuciformis from different producing areas:FTIR ana lysis showed that polysaccharide and lipid compounds were found in tremella fucifor mis from different producing areas,among which mannose and polysaccharide conten ts in tremella fuciformis from Gutian were the highest.2.Preparation of plant extract and determination of polysaccharide content:Bletil la striata polysaccharide extraction 3 times,extraction temperature 80°C,the first fee d-to-liquid ratio of 1:10（g/m L）,extraction time l.5 h,the second feed-to-liquid ratio of1:6（g/m L）,extraction time 1 h,the third feed-liquid ratio of 1:6（g/m L）,extraction tim e 0.5 h,to obtaina polysaccharide content of 65.78±3.7%.Plant polysaccharide was e xtracted by hot water extraction.The liquid ratio of cortex dictamni is 1:25（g/m L）,ext raction time of 2h and extraction temperature of 100℃,and the polysaccharide conten t was 6.47±1.1%.Tremella polysaccharide extraction twice,extraction temperature 80°C,the first feed-to-liquid ratio of 1:25（g/m L）,extractiontime 1 h,the second feed-to-liquid ratio of 1:10（g/m L）,extraction time 1 h,to obtaina polysaccharide content of white fungus is 43.60±2.2%.3.Recipe filtering:According to the basic principles of cosmetic formula design,theessence formula is preliminarily designed,and then the formula of the essence is o ptimized through univariate and orthogonal experiments,and theamount of white fres h skin extract,white mustard extract and white fungus extract is screened using the cl earance index of hydroxyl radicals;and then the amount of carbomer resin 940,sodiu m hyaluronate and other excipients is screened by viscosity as an indicator;finally the optimal proportion is added to bletilla striata extract by 7.47±1.2%,cortex dictamni extract 3.74±1.0%tremella 18.79±2.3%,carbomer resin 940 0.3±0.02%,sodium hyal uronate 0.04±0.01%,glycerin 7±0.9%,1,2-propanediol 3±1.0%,triethanolamine appr opriate amount,super pure water supplement to 100%.4.Polysaccharide component analysis:Determination of polysaccharide compon ents and content in the essence,purification of the essence,HPLC method analysis of the monosaccharide composition and molecular weight in the essence,detected that th e essence contains 8 kinds of polysaccharides,namely Man,Rib,Rha,Gal A,Glu,Gal,Xyl,Arab of which the content of Gal A is the highest,for low molecular weight poly saccharides,good stability in aqueous solution,the molecular weight is 1.36×10⁵Da,which can be transdermal absorption.5.Quality evaluation:Sensory evaluation:Fifty volunteers were selected and their feelings were investigated through a questionnaire,the results showed that the serum had good spreadability,moisture,permeability,uniformity,delicacy and direct use.Physical and chemical indicators:The essence is a light yellow viscous liquid,wi th afaint fragrance of chinese herbal medicine,according to GB/T13531.1-2008 p H va lueof 6.0±0.12,according to GB/T15357 determination of viscosity of 400±10.8mp a·s,according to GB/T29665-2013 through centrifugal experiments,heat and cold res istance experiments,Alternating hot and cold experiments,the results show that the pr operties of the essence are stable.Microbial indicators:According to the 2015 edition of the《Cosmetic Safety Te chnical Specifications》in the test method,the microbial content in the essence was d etected,and the results showed that pseudomonas aeruginosa,staphylococcus aureus and escherichia coli were not detected,the total number of molds and yeasts≦10,the total number of colonies<20,and the microbialindicators of the essence met the requir ements ofthe cosmetics industry standard.6.Efficacy and skin irritation evaluation:The moisturizing rate of the serum mea sured by weighing method was 99.38±3.7%,the IC₅₀of the serum measuredby the hy droxyl radical experiment was 40.15 mg/m L,the inhibition rate of tyrosinase was 33.07±1.6%,and the instrument evaluation method showed that after 30 days of using th e serum,the skinspots,pigments,pimples,etc.were significantly reduced,the skin m oisture was significantly increased,and the oil content was reduced,which can be use d to adjust the skin water and oil balance.The serum was subjected to many skin irritat ion experiments,and thesubjects did not appear erythematous,allergic and other phen omena after use,and there was no irritation.Respectively in this paper the three plants as an independent unit is extracted,an d screening of different proportion extract combined together,the preparation of trans dermal delivery release of efficacy composition into subcutaneous compound product s,the three natural extract as the unit pass release system used in the compound essen ce,can not only improve product stability,avoid excitant,also can improve the bioava ilability of cosmetics,it is easy to be absorbed by human skin,and at the same time gi ves cosmetics a variety of functions,moisturizing,anti-oxidation and whitening,safe and non-irritating,providingnew ideas for the application of natural products.