| With the normalization of air conditioning in people ’s office and living environment and the increase of outdoor activities such as camping and climbing,the phenomenon of cold and hot discomfort caused by the temperature difference between indoor and outdoor or outdoor day and night is becoming more and more frequent.Phase change thermoregulation materials can absorb or release a large amount of energy to adjust the local temperature through their own reversible phase change reaction within a certain temperature range.They are widely used in building materials,aerospace and other fields.Textiles and garments made of phase change thermoregulation materials can effectively slow down the temperature change of human microenvironment and make the human body feel cold and hot.Therefore,it is necessary to develop and design a knitted garment with beautiful appearance,comfortable wearing and good temperature regulation performance,thermal comfort performance and wearing performance.This paper mainly studies the influence of different yarn raw material ratio,structure and finishing method on the temperature regulation performance,thermal comfort performance and wearability of fully formed knitted fabrics.Through the analysis of variance of random block design and comprehensive evaluation of fuzzy mathematics on the test data,the influence of yarn raw material ratio,finishing method and structure on the temperature regulation performance,thermal comfort performance and wearability of fully formed knitted fabrics is explored.It provides a theoretical basis for the subsequent development of fully formed knitted garments with bidirectional self-regulating temperature and excellent thermal comfort performance and wearability.(1)The appearance and temperature regulating performance of the fabric yarn were tested and analyzed by SEM scanning electron microscopy,DSC differential scanning calorimeter and TGA thermogravimetric analyzer.The results showed that the surface of the ordinary viscose yarn dipped and rolled by PCM phase change finishing agent was evenly covered with PCM phase change microcapsules,which could absorb and release heat in different degrees between 6.69～38.47℃.The enthalpy value was 28.16J/g when heating up and 25.19 J/g when cooling down.The proportion of PCM phase change microcapsules was about 6%.Different degrees of endothermic and exothermic phenomena can occur in the temperature range of 7.71～33.88℃.The enthalpy value reaches 12.59 J/g when heating up and 10.65 J/g when cooling down.The mass proportion of PCM phase change microcapsules is about 4%.(2)Based on the full factorial experimental method,the experimental scheme of thermo-regulated fiber fully-fashioned knitted fabric was established.The yarn feed ratio,finishing method and fabric structure were taken as the experimental factors.The yarn feed ratio and finishing method were taken as 4 levels,and the fabric structure was taken as 3 levels.According to the sample scheme,Shinma Seiki MACH-2X four-needle plate computer flat knitting machine was used to complete the knitting of sample clothes and fabric samples,which provided experimental samples for subsequent fabric performance research and analysis.(3)The thermal adjustment performance and thermal comfort performance of each sample were tested by using the thermal manikin equipment.The experimental data of each index were analyzed according to the random block design variance analysis method in SPSS software.The results show that the yarn feed ratio,finishing method and fabric structure have significant effects on the average heating and cooling rate of the sample clothing,the clothing Cro value and the predicted whole body thermal sensation vote rate(PMV value).Among them,the TempSense phase change thermo-regulated fiber viscose yarn/ordinary viscose yarn feed ratio of 0:100 and the 1×1 rib pattern sample padded with PCM phase change finishing agent is the best.The higher the mass ratio of PCM phase change microcapsules in the fabric,the thicker the fabric thickness,the higher the density,the slower the average rising and cooling rate of the fabric,the higher the clothing Crow value and the predicted body thermal sensation vote rate(PMV value),the better the fabric thermo-regulation performance and thermal comfort.(4)In this study,the fabric warmth retention,air permeability,moisture permeability,wrinkle recovery,drape and pilling resistance of 12 samples were tested respectively,and the test data of each index were analyzed by random block design variance analysis method in SPSS software.The results show that the 1×1 rib weave experimental sample with TempSense phase change thermostat fiber viscose yarn/ordinary viscose yarn feed ratio of 0∶100 and padding by PCM phase change finishing agent has the best warmth retention,that is,the higher the mass ratio of PCM phase change microcapsules in the fabric,the thicker the fabric thickness,the higher the density,the higher the heat preservation rate,the smaller the heat transfer coefficient,and the better the warmth retention of the fabric.TempSense phase change thermo-regulated fiber viscose yarn/ordinary viscose yarn feed ratio of 50∶50 and the air permeability of the cardigan weave experimental sample padded with ordinary finishing agent is the best,that is,the looser the fabric structure,the larger the pores,the smaller the fabric density,and the better the air permeability of the fabric.TempSense phase change thermo-regulated fiber viscose yarn/ordinary viscose yarn feed ratio of 0∶100 and the weft plain weave test sample padded with ordinary finishing agent has the best moisture permeability,that is,the larger the ratio of ordinary viscose yarn in the fabric,the thinner the fabric thickness,the smaller the density,and the better the moisture permeability.The wrinkle recovery of 1×1 rib fabric experimental sample with TempSense phase change thermo-regulated fiber viscose yarn/ordinary viscose yarn feed ratio of 0∶100 and padding by PCM phase change finishing agent is the best,that is,the larger the proportion of ordinary viscose yarn in the fabric,the thicker the fabric thickness,the greater the density,and the better the wrinkle recovery of the fabric.TempSense phase change thermo-regulated fiber viscose yarn/ordinary viscose yarn feed ratio of 0∶100 and the weft plain weave experimental sample padded by PCM phase change finishing agent has the best drapability,that is,the thinner the fabric thickness,the smaller the density,the lighter the gram weight,and the better the fabric drapability.TempSense phase change thermostat fiber viscose yarn / ordinary viscose yarn into the yarn ratio of 50∶50 and the ordinary finishing agent after padding 1 × 1rib weave experimental sample anti pilling resistance is the best,that is,the thicker the fabric thickness,the greater the density,the better the anti pilling resistance of the fabric.(5)According to the test data of the above index system,10 textile experts are invited to grade the importance of each index function according to the subjective evaluation.The weight value of each index is established by AHP analytic hierarchy process,and the experimental data and the subjective evaluation score of the experts are comprehensively calculated and analyzed by fuzzy comprehensive evaluation method.Finally,according to the results of fuzzy comprehensive evaluation,the fabric feed ratio is TempSense phase change thermo-regulated fiber viscose yarn/ordinary viscose yarn 0∶100,and the finishing method is PCM phase change finishing agent padding.Combined with the heat dissipation and temperature difference of different parts of the human body,the structure partition design method is adopted to design the style of the thermo-regulated clothing products and weave the finished products,which provides a reference for the design and development of the subsequent phase change thermo-regulated fully formed knitted products. |
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