| By collecting and compiling the graphic data of the first costumes in the wall paintings of northern Jin during the Song,Liao and Jin dynasties,and comparing them with archaeological objects,images and historical documents of the same period,this paper makes a more in-depth study of the classification of the first costumes of mural figures,the cultural and artistic characteristics of the first costumes of secular and deity figures,and the use of mural first costumes in modern design.First,the Liao and Jin periods of mural painting in Jinbei into two categories of temple wall paintings and tomb murals,and a brief description of them.Secondly,we classify and study the first costumes of the figures in the murals according to the three categories of scarves,hats and crowns.The reasons for their popularity are explained,namely,the north-south policy of the Liao dynasty made the Han people in northern Jin retain their own costume culture,and the main comparison is made with the Song first costumes of the same period of the Liao and Jin dynasties,and it is concluded that the first costumes of Han people in northern Jin during the Liao and Jin dynasties were not very different from those in Song land,while the first costumes of deities were similar in shape to those of secular people and were designed by painters according to the first costumes of the time.Third,we analyze the cultural and artistic characteristics of the first costumes of secular figures in the wall paintings of Jinbei during the Liao and Jin dynasties.It is concluded that Liao and Jin actively studied the popular culture of Song,and the first costume was influenced by Confucian culture and followed the customs of Song women wearing crowns and flower pins;the Khitan nobles also retained their nomadic characteristics of still gold and felt when studying the first costume of the Han.However,there are still some differences between the first costumes of the two countries in terms of the shape of the flower crown and beam crown of Liao and Song.Fourthly,we analyze the cultural and artistic characteristics of the first costumes of deities in wall paintings.From the evolution of Buddhist deities and figures of the Buddha’s crown,we analyze the characteristics of the patterns on the crown of Chongfu Temple,and conclude that the flame pearl and the seed word as Buddhist patterns have changed greatly with the development of time,and penetrated into all aspects of daily life such as architectural decoration,jewelry wear,and funeral.Finally,we analyze the cases of Liao and Jin first costumes in mural paintings for use in modern design,and discuss how to use the means of modern design to carry forward the excellent mural art of Jinbei better. |