| Since its birth for more than 100 years,denim clothing has been squeezed into the world fashion forest and swept all countries for a long time with its unique charm,and its market scale is still gradually expanding.However,the printing and dyeing wastewater,sizing and desizing wastewater and finishing wastewater in the production and processing of denim clothing have always been the wastewater pollution problems concerned by the country,enterprises and even the people.In the traditional indigo dyeing and sizing of denim warp yarns,the lengthy dyeing process,multiple padded-oxidized processes,and desizing process have resulted in huge water consumption and wastewater discharge.Therefore,exploring a new type of sizing and dyeing technology to realize the clean processing and production of denim warp yarns have gradually become a hot research topic in the field of denim textile clothing.This study combined "Dyeing-yarn with pigments technology" and "Non desizing technology",carries out "Integration of sizing and dyeing" treatment on pure cotton denim warp yarns,which combines yarn sizing and dyeing into one step.The yarn is padded in the sizing and dyeing one-bath color paste composed of water-soluble polyurethane(WPU)adhesive 601 C and 401 A,phthalocyanine blue coating,formaldehyde free cross-linking and penetrant JFC,and the color is fixed through drying and baking.This process has the following advantages: the process flow is short;saving water resources without washing and desizing;keep the classic blue of denim clothing;water-soluble polyurethane as an adhesive is environmentally friendly and also maintains elongation;Adding functional finishing agent in the color paste can avoid the finishing.This paper mainly researched the formula of "Sizing and dyeing one-bath color paste" and the process selection of "Integration of sizing and dyeing".By using single factor and orthogonal optimization methods,this paper discusses the influence of different concentrations of adhesives and coating on the sizing and dyeing properties of the yarn.The optimum formula is as follows: the adhesive ratio of 601C:410A is 1:1,the total adhesive concentration is 160g/L,the concentration of phthalocyanine blue coating is 140 g/L,the concentration of cross-linking agent is 2.5 %,and the concentration of penetrant is 0.2 %.Then the effects of dip-nip times,baking temperature and time on yarn properties are discussed.The optimum process is as follows: the pre drying temperature is 60 ℃,1-dip-1-nip,the baking temperature is 160 ℃ and the time is 3 min.Under this condition,the denim yarn not only has a great increasing strength rate,but also has a great increase in breaking elongation,the number of abrasion resistance is 25,the softness is better,and K/S is about 15,all the color fastness to soaping reached more than 4 grades,dry rubbiing reached 4 grades,wet rubbing reached 3 grades,which meet the dyeing fastness standard of denim clothing in textile industry.Finally,this topic prepared Zn O dispersion based on the formula of "Sizing and dyeing one-bath color paste" and the process selection of "Integration of sizing and dyeing".Then using Zn O itself has good ultraviolet absorption function,prepared the ultraviolet functionality color paste.Researched the influence of color paste with different Zn O mass concentration on the UV-resistant performance and K/S value of the fabric after yarn sizedyeing and weaving.The results show that high mass concentration of Zn O dispersion can effectively improve the ultraviolet resistance of fabric,and the XRD and SEM tests show that Zn O particles are successfully loaded on the fiber,and the mass concentration of Zn O has little effect on the K/S value of fabric. |
