Research On Jacquard Structure And Product Development Of Warp-knitted Three-jacquard Shoe Fabric

With the popularity of sports and fitness,the sales of sports shoes made of warp-knitted jacquard shoe fabric have been growing,consumers place higher demands on the breathable comfort,athletic functionality and fancy appearance of jacquard shoe fabric.However,due to the limitation of the number and configuration of jacquard guide bars,single and double jacquard technologies can knit fewer types of jacquard structure,and there is a problem of product convergence.On the basis of the traditional double jacquard guide bars configuration,the new three-jacquard technical scheme of adding the third jacquard guide bar can theoretically break the existing process limitations.Compared with single and double jacquard shoe fabric,the pattern richness and structural functionalization of three-jacquard have been significantly improved,the jacquard function of single and double jacquard warp knitting machines can also be obtained by disabling specific jacquard bars of three-jacquard configuration,which greatly improves the utilization rate of resources.However,there are few studies on the three-jacquard technology and three-jacquard process,and there is lack of a mature and effective threejacquard shoe fabric forming design and process implementation method.Therefore,this paper studied the principle of three-jacquard technology,the variation mechanism of jacquard stitches and jacquard structures,analyzed the multi-structure forming knitting principle of threejacquard shoe fabric,combination with different guide bar threading schemes of three-jacquard warp knitting machine,and deeply explored the development process and systemic design method of three-jacquard shoe fabric with different forming effects.Firstly,the three-jacquard equipment technique,needle selection technique and double needle bed jacquard stitches were studied.The jacquard principle of the functional mechanism of three-jacquard warp knitting machine was studied,the continuous and interphase schemes of three jacquard guide bars were proposed by analyzing the characteristics of shoe fabric knitted by single and double jacquard warp knitting machines with different let-off mechanisms and jacquard guide bars,and the scheme of three-jacquard control system was upgrade designed.The offset principle of the traditional three-needle jacquard technology and the new threeneedle jacquard technology were analyzed.The jacquard structures formed by 2 and 4 offset signals were discussed respectively,and the jacquard effect was divided.The formation principle of double needle bed jacquard stitches with 8 offset signals were further studied.By analyzing the rule between the overlap and underlap,they were summarized as single needle bed jacquard stitch and double needle bed jacquard stitch,and the 3D loop structure and jacquard effect were further studied.Secondly,the changing mechanism of three-jacquard mesh structure,color structure and concave-convex structure were discussed.The change mechanism of diamond,rectangle and hexagon of 2d mesh structure was explored by analyzing the underlap of single needle bed jacquard stitch.Through the combination design of the jacquard structures of different guide bars,the change mechanism of the single-mesh,double-mesh separation and double-mesh connection process of 3d mesh structures were studied,and knitting product was realized for verification.Based on the color difference and covering relationship of jacquard yarns,the principle of multi-color jacquard was analyzed,and the changing mechanism of “V” point color structure and pure-color color structure were studied.The jacquard changing mechanism of three jacquard plush concave-convex structure and local sandwich concave-convex structure were studied from the aspects of guide bar selection,basic stitch design,jacquard notation design and jacquard structure design.Thirdly,the forming design method of three-jacquard shoe fabric and the realization method of multi-structure forming process were analyzed.From the aspects of yarn drawingin,shoe size,jacquard structure,dyeing and finishing design,the integrated knitting forming design method of three-jacquard shoe fabric was designed forward.Based on the continuous and interphase configuration scheme of three-jacquard warp knitting machine,three basic process schemes including different yarn drawing-in and basic stitch design were proposed,and the multi-structure forming process of three-jacquard shoe fabric was further studied,including mesh and color double structures forming,concave-convex and color double structures forming,mesh concave-convex and color triple structures forming.Finally,the development process of warp knitted three-jacquard shoe fabric was practiced.Using the integrated knitting forming design method of raw material process design,pattern size design,jacquard structure design and finished product typesetting design,the development of a mesh and color double structures forming three-jacquard spacer shoe fabric was realized based on the interphase configuration of three jacquard guide bars.The process of a mesh concave-convex and color triple structures forming three-jacquard plush shoe fabric was designed based on the continuous configuration of three jacquard guide bars.And the development of a mesh concave-convex and color triple structures forming three-jacquard local sandwich shoe fabric was realized based on the continuous configuration of three jacquard guide bars.The performance test,analysis and evaluation of 3 shoe products were carried out.Through the research on the warp-knitted three-jacquard structure and the forming process of three-jacquard shoe fabric,this paper realized the breakthrough of the key technology of three-jacquard,expanded the product style library of warp-knitted three-jacquard shoe fabric,and provided theoretical and practical reference for the further development of three-jacquard shoe fabric.