Preparation About Skin Care Cream And Lotion Of Centella Asiatica

Centella asiatica is one of the important cash crops under the forest in Hunan Province.it is listed as a popularized planting species in the national underforest economic demonstration base in 2021.Centella asiatica is widely used in cosmetics abroad in recent years,but in China,there is a lack of systematic research on its extraction,efficacy and application in cream or emulsion.In this paper,the active components of Centella asiatica were extracted with low eutectic solvent,and the whitening and anti-allergic effects of hydroxyasiaticoside and asiaticoside were screened.Two new products of Centella asiatica skin cream and lotion were developed and their processes were designed,and the formula was further optimized through sensory evaluation of the two new products.Their safety was evaluated in accordance with the requirements of the regulations on the Supervision and Administration of Cosmetics.The results showed that when Centella asiatica was extracted by adding water(volume ratio 1:1)to the eutectic solvent formed by the mixture of choline chloride and 1,3-butanediol(molar ratio 1:3),the yield of hydroxyasiaticoside in the extract was 1.03%,which was 1.40 times higher than that of water extraction.Through the observation of electron microscope,it can be inferred that the eutectic solvent destroyed the plant tissue structure of Centella asiatica,thus promoting the dissolution of effective components.The whitening effect was screened by tyrosinase activity inhibition experiment.the results showed that hydroxyasiaticoside and asiaticoside had no obvious inhibitory effect on tyrosinase.The anti-allergic effect was screened by hyaluronidase activity inhibition test.the results showed that the inhibition rate of hydroxyasiaticoside on hyaluronidase was 44.82%,and that of asiaticoside on hyaluronidase was 30.53%.The inhibition rate of Centella asiatica extract was 38.62%,which was equivalent to 80.82%,55.05%and 69.64%of the inhibition rate of glycyrrhizic acid dipotassium glycyrrhizinate at the same concentration.Therefore,it is determined that Centella asiatica has a certain anti-allergic effect.According to the requirements of enterprises and green environmental protection,the basic formulations of Centella asiatica skin care cream with 19 ingredients and Centella asiatica emulsion with 16 components were drawn up,and the process of skin care cream and lotion was optimized by orthogonal design method.and the stability test was carried out.The results show that the prepared samples can remain stable in the hot and cold alternating experiment with a period of 7 days with proper ratio of oil phase composition and surfactant and emulsifying temperature of 80℃.Through the feedback of the experimenter’s questionnaire and using the analytic hierarchy process to further adjust the sensory modification components in the Centella asiatica skin care cream and lotion,so that the tester’s satisfaction rate of the sample reached 93.40%and 94.70%.According to the Technical guidelines for Cosmetic Safety Assessment(2021 Edition)issued by the State Drug Administration,all the ingredients and dosage in the formula are evaluated,and the results show that all the ingredients and dosage are within the published allowable range,so the sample formula is not harmful to human health under foreseeable use conditions.This study provides a certain reference for the rational use of Centella asiatica resources,broadening the application scene of economic species under the forest,and enriching the types of green natural cosmetics.