| This article starts from the historical background of the traditional Chinese women’s clothing,and combines Ye Jintian’s "New Orientalism" concept to systematically analyze the shape of his film and television women’s clothing.Because film and television costumes are based on different materials,it is difficult to have absolute design commonality.Therefore,this paper focuses on analyzing the retention and innovation methods in the design.By consulting the drama background,intercepting costume style drawings,and comparing the patterns of the original dynasties,it summarizes Ye Jintian’s personal style and characteristic methods.Draw lessons from it.The research scope of this paper is limited to Ye Jintian’s more typical film and television costume works,taking the women’s costumes in "The Banquet","Red Cliff" and other works as the research object.The retention and addition,exaggeration and weakening of the shape are analyzed,and Ye Jintian’s thinking path of interpreting historical themes is analyzed,and how to re-integrate the shape characteristics with the color and fabric of clothing.Finally,a design method that is full of reference and practicality is summarized: adjust the tightness and straightness of the lines at the collar and cuffs to build a flexible or rigid vision;connect the multi-part shape features to break through the local effect on the application area.Limit;emphasize the original rhythm of clothing,or build a new visual rhythm;avoid excessive concentration or dispersion of the visual focus,and form a harmonious interaction between the human body and clothing;draw aesthetic intentions from literature and other fields to break through clothing own theoretical limitations.The design of women’s clothing in my country’s ancient costume film and television works is limited to a certain extent by the historical dimension,so Ye Jintian’s breakthrough design thinking has great reference value.It is not negotiable to follow and retain the historical shape in the design,but we should boldly add new techniques and concepts on top of it.Only by breaking through the design limitations of nationality,territoriality and epoch,can women’s clothing for film and television stimulate the penetration of traditional clothing culture,become the brightest color of the appeal of film and television works,and realize a real win-win between clothing design and film and television art. |