In contemporary society,while dressing appropriately and stylishly,people are more seeking for comfortable fit and convenient movement of clothes,and they are unwilling to be restrained and oppressed by clothes.In order to meet this demand,more and more suits,shirts,jackets and other clothing began to use stretch woven fabrics.Stretch woven fabrics are divided into weft stretch woven fabrics and two-way stretch woven fabrics.The elastic woven fabric has stable structure,smooth cloth surface and good extensibility,which is suitable for various cutting methods.It is comfortable to wear,elegant and flexible,and stretch freely.At present,the elasticity of the fabric is mainly increased by adding spandex yarn to the fabric.Spandex cotton fabric is favored by the market because it has good moisture absorption,beautiful appearance,and healthy and harmless.Spandex yarn with low melting point skin core structure has good low temperature flexibility.Under a lower temperature heat treatment process,the skin layer will melt and partially bond with the outer fiber,which will affect the performance of the textile.At present,there are few studies on low-melting spandex yarns and fabrics.In this paper,spandex cotton core spun yarn is spun with low melting point skin core spandex yarn as core yarn,and the effects of yarn process parameters and heat treatment process on yarn properties are studied.Then,the low-melting-point skin-core spandex cotton yarn was used to spin weft stretch fabric and two-way elastic fabric,which was used to study the effect of yarn specifications and heat treatment process on the properties of the two fabrics.First,the influence of spinning process and yarn heat treatment process on yarn properties is explored.To this end,different types of spandex yarns,spandex draft multiples,spandex filament fineness,core-spun yarn twist coefficient and yarn fineness were designed,and spinning experiments were carried out on a ring spinning machine with a core-spun yarn device.Taking advantage of the difference in the performance of the spandex skin layer and the core layer of the skin-core structure,the yarn is heat-treated,so that the spandex skin layer and the outer fiber are bonded,thereby affecting the yarn performance.By testing the strength,evenness,hairiness and elastic recovery of the yarn,the influence of the spinning process and the heat treatment process of the yarn on the performance of the core-spun yarn is analyzed.The results show that: twist coefficient,yarn fineness,spandex core filament fineness,spandex core filament draft ratio,spandex core filament type will have different effects on yarn properties;The heat treatment process will affect the performance of the low melting point skin-core spandex cotton core-spun yarn;the optimization of the heat treatment process is of great significance for improving the elastic recovery rate of the yarn and maintaining the strength and elongation of the yarn.Secondly,the weaving process of the woven fabric was studied,and the influence of the weft specification on the performance of the low melting point skin-core structure spandex cotton weft elastic fabric was explored.The warp yarn is made of 14.6tex/2 pure cotton yarn,and the weft yarn is made of spandex core-spun yarn with different process parameters to weave a plain weft stretch woven fabric.By testing the fabric’s tensile properties,wrinkle recovery performance,elastic recovery performance and fabric style,the influence of weft process parameters and heat treatment process on fabric properties is analyzed.The results show that: the twist coefficient of the weft yarn,yarn fineness,spandex core filament fineness,spandex core filament draft multiple,and spandex core filament types all affect the properties of the fabric;the heat treatment temperature and heat treatment time affect the properties of the fabric.The low-melting-point skin-core spandex cotton weft elastic fabric can maintain the breaking strength of the fabric under the heat treatment process of 180°C for 40 s,and improve the weft wrinkle recovery performance of the fabric.Finally,the properties of two-way stretch woven fabrics are studied.The performance difference between ordinary spandex two-way stretch plain weave fabric and low-melting-point skin core structure spandex two-way stretch plain weave fabric was compared.The effect of heat treatment process on the properties of low melting point skin-core spandex cotton bidirectional stretch plain weave woven fabric was studied.By testing the fabric’s tensile properties,wrinkle recovery angle,elastic recovery and fabric style,the effect of heat treatment process on the properties of low-melting skin-core structure spandex and ordinary spandex cotton core-spun yarn two-way stretch woven fabric is analyzed.The results show that: Compared with cotton woven fabrics,two-way stretch woven fabrics have greater breaking elongation,better elastic recovery,and softer fabrics.The preferred heat treatment process is a temperature of 180°C and a treatment time of 40 s.At this time,the low melting point skin-core structure of spandex cotton two-way stretch plain weave woven fabric is 11.36% higher in warp strength and 14.48% in weft direction than ordinary spandex cotton two-way stretch plain weave woven fabric.The wrinkle recovery angles in the warp and weft directions are 10.90% and 10.13% larger respectively. |