| Theoretical models were developed which predict the filling-direction stretch and recovery of dyed textured woven polyester fabrics. Twelve different plain weave fabrics were analyzed, each having a flat continuous polyester warp but different textured polyester filling yarns. The experimental design covers three distinct feed yarn types (34 filament, round cross section; 34 filament, octalobal cross section; 68 filament, round cross section) and four textured yarn types (stretch, semi-stretch, semi-set, and fully-set).; A force-geometric model was developed which assumes that the filling yarn follows a sine wave and that the elements representing weave crimp removal and textured yarn decrimping are elastic. This model is based upon measured yarn properties, fabric geometry, and force-equilibrium principles. Predicted stress-strain curves were constructed and compared to experimental results. The fit between experiment and theory is generally good with better agreement for fabrics that are jammed. Removal of weave crimp was found to be the most significant factor determining fabric stretch.; Two viscoelastic models were also used to predict fabric stress-strain and recovery from stress behavior. Creep and stress relaxation tests were used to determine the constants for these models. Fit between experiment and theory is found to be poor. Reasons are given for the discrepancies.; Correlations are drawn between textured yarn properties, fabric shrinkage during dyeing and finishing, and fabric tensile properties. It is shown that neither measured yarn properties nor fabric shrinkage had significant correlation with filling directional fabric stretch and recovery. Certain yarn properties were found, however, which correlated well with fabric shrinkage during dyeing. These findings are related to the force-geometric research. |
