The Study On Jiangnan Work Skirt In Modern Times

This article takes Jiangnan work skirts in modern times as the main research object,selects88 actual work skirts as research material evidence,66 images as graphic evidence,and ancient documents as documentary evidence,including Song poetry,Yuan tunes,novels and local chronicles.This article applies triple evidence method,grounded theory and field investigation method to explore the shape and structure,craftsmanship,color,dressing rules of Jiangnan work skirt and the relationship between work skirt and Jiangnan social customs.The content of this article is divided into three parts.The first part includes a summary of the research status of work skirt,examples of skirting appellations and a summary of the areas where work skirt exists.The second part is the physical study of work skirt,starting from 88 pieces of work skirts from private collections.By collecting documents,images and researching the private collection of work skirts,this article explores the shape and structure,craftsmanship and materials of Jiangnan work skirt.The third part is the research on the dressing rules of work skirts,including what kind of person would wear a work skirt,what kind of occasion do people wear a work skirt,in what area do people wear a work skirt and the relationship between work skirts and Jiangnan social fashion.The final conclusion of this article is as follows.The work skirts are worn in 7 cities in Jiangsu Province,9 cities in Zhejiang Province and 7 districts in Shanghai.The shape of work skirts is divided into two categories: one-piece work skirts and two-piece work skirts.According to the typical forms of each type of work skirts,they are divided into different types.Then,according to the difference in the shape of each type of work skirts,each type is divided into several styles.The skirts are finally divided into 2 categories types and 11 styles.The special craftsmanship of making work skirts is the combination of pleats and embroidery.The pleats are mainly box-pleats and kiltpleats.The embroidery is divided into flat pleat-decorative embroidery and three-dimensional pleat-decorative embroidery.The material for the skirt is mainly cotton,as well as summer cloth,silk and chemical fiber.The colors of work skirts include cyan,blue,moon white and black,and its colors are divided into main colors,auxiliary colors and decorative colors.The occasions for wearing work skirts are divided into working occasions and ceremonies.Working occasions include three occasions: working in the paddy field,fisherman fishing and artisans working.Ceremonies include weddings and traditional festivals.Work skirts can be worn in all seasons.