Development And Study Of Pearl Shell Series Cosmetics

Southern pearl,a specialty of Beihai City,is a national geographical indication product.In addition to being expensive jewelry,Southern pearl has high quality and it is widely used in health care products and medicines,but its high value-added products are rare.Ganoderma lucidum is one of the traditional precious chinese medicinal materials.It is rich in chemical components and has strong physiological activity.Pearl and Ganoderma lucidum are combined to detoxify and correct which are used to protect liver and regulate immunity,but at present,the combination of them have not been reported in the field of cosmetics.Based on the comprehensive utilization of Southern pearl produced in Beihai city,the formulation system and preparation technology of mositurizing,whitening,sunscreen cosmetics containing two kinds of extracts were designed.Their safety and quality were evaluated.The specific research content of this paper is as follows:1.Literature studyReferring to the literatures about pearls at home and abroad,the chemical constituents,pharmacological activities and applications were summarized.The research status of development of three cosmetics of moisturizing,whitening and sunscreen were introduced,to provide ideas for the development of three pearl oyster series cosmetics.2.Study on the preparation technology and quality standard of South Pearl extractTo improve the preparation process of southern pearl extract,taking southern pearl powder as raw material,the total protein content as indicator.The enzymatic hydrolysis of the southern pearl extract was optimized through single factor and orthogonal experiments.The optimized enzymatic hydrolysis process is:took southern pearl powder,added 20 times distilled water,extracted at 95℃ for 15 min,cooled and adjusted to pH 6.5,add 1%dispase,enzymatic hydrolysis at 70℃ for 5 h,boiled for 10 min,centrifuged at 8000r/min for 10min,The supernatant was concentrated to 0.5g of crude drug/mL.In order to control the quality of southern pearl extract,with reference to the national standard GB/T 35915-2018 for cosmetic raw material pearl extract,the character and physicochemical of southern pearl extract were determined by GB/T 35915-2018 Cosmetic ingredients-Extract of pearl,and they met the national standard.3.Study on the formulation and preparation process of pearl moisturizing lotionUsing emulsification theory and taking appearance stability as an indicator,the type and dosage of emulsifiers were investigated.The results showed that the liquid crystal emulsifier Olivem 1000 had the best emulsifying effect,0.1%xanthan gum was added to help stabilize the system.Therefore,the specific weight ratio of each substance in the moisturizing lotion determined was as follows:sweet almond oil 4%,isopropyl myristate 5%,shea butter 3%,squalane 5%,tocopherol 1%,Olivem 1000 3%,glycerin 5%,butylene glycol 5%,ganoderma atrum(mushroom)extract 5%,southern pearl extract 5%,xanthan gum 0.1%,phenoxyethanol 0.5%,sodium hyaluronate 0.1%,water to 100%.The effects of emulsification temperature,emulsification time and emulsification speed on appearance stability of the product were investigated.The optimum preparation process was determined as follows:The oil phase raw material and the water phase raw material were added to the container respectively,heated to 80℃ and kept the temperature for 10 minutes,The materials were mixed at 80℃ for 10 minutes at a speed of 7000 r/min.After emulsification,stirring and coolling naturally to 45℃,adding phenoxyethanol,cooling to room temperature,and aging for 24 hours to obtain a moisturizing lotion.4.Study on the formulation and preparation process of pearl whitening creamTo evaluate the whitening effects of southern pearl extract,ganoderma atrum(mushroom)extract and their compound,the tyrosinase inhibition rate,cell viability and relative melanin content in B16 cells were determined.The results showed that both 1%ganoderma atrum(mushroom)extract,2%pearl extract and their compound could significantly inhibit tyrosinase activity(P<0.05)and reduce melanin content(P<0.05).The compound’s inhibition rate of tyrosinase activity and melanin content in cells were 32.87%and 68.27%respectively,which were better than single groups(P<0.05).What’s more,the compound group can significantly reduce TRP1 mRNA expression levels,but single groups cannot significantly reduce TRP1 mRNA expression levels.Taking appearance and stability as indicators,the dosage of emulsifier,cetearyl alcohol and xanthan gum was investigated.The results showed that when the amount of emulsifier was 3%,the amount of cetearyl alcohol was 1%,and the amount of xanthan gum was 0.05%,the appearance and stability were good.The specific weight ratios of the substances in the whitening cream determined by the experiment are as follows:isopropyl myristate 5%,shea butter 3%,cetearyl alcohol 1%,squalane 5%,tocopherol 1%,Olivem 1000 3%,glycerin 5%,butylene glycol 5%,ganoderma atrum(mushroom)extract 1%,southern pearl extract 2%,xanthan gum 0.05%,phenoxyethanol 0.5%,water to 100%.The effects of emulsification temperature,emulsification time and emulsification speed on appearance and stability of the product were investigated.The optimum preparation process was determined as follows:The oil phase raw material and the water phase raw material were added to the container respectively,heated to 80℃ and kept the temperature for 10 minutes,The materials were mixed at 80℃ for 15 minutes at a speed of 5000 r/min.After emulsification,stirring and coolling naturally to 45℃,adding phenoxyethanol,cooling to room temperature,and aging for 24 hours to obtain a whitening cream.5.Study on the formulation and preparation process of pearl sunscreen creamIn order to optimize a suitable combination of chemical ultraviolet absorbers,the absorption of the UVA region and the UVB region were used as indicators.The combination of chemical ultraviolet absorbers was optimized through orthogonal design,and the optimized chemical ultraviolet absorber combination was:ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 7%,octocrylene 3%,butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane 3%.Taking appearance and stability as indicators,the dosage of emulsifier,titanium dioxide was investigated.The determined titanium dioxide was 4%and Olivem 1000 was 4%.Therefore,the specific weight ratio of each substance in the sunscreen was determined as follows:ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 7%,octocrylene 3%,butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane 3%,dicaprylyl carbonate 6%,isopropyl myristate 4%,titanium dioxide 4%,shea butter 1%,tocopherol 1%,olivem 1000 4%,xanthan gum 0.1%,glycerin 5%,butylene glycol 5%,Black ganoderma atrum(mushroom)extract 1%,southern pearl extract 2%,phenoxyethanol 0.5%,allantoin 0.2%,deionized water to 100%.The effects of emulsification temperature,emulsification time,and emulsification speed on appearance and stability of the product were investigated,The optimum preparation process was determined as follows:The oil phase raw material and the water phase raw material were added to the container respectively,heated to 80℃ and kept the temperature for 10 minutes,The materials were mixed at 80℃ for 5 minutes at a speed of 4000 r/min.After emulsification,stirring and coolling naturally to 45℃,adding phenoxyethanol,cooling to room temperature,and aging for 24 hours to obtain a sunscreen cream.6.Quality evaluation of pearl shell series cosmeticsThe quality evaluation of pearl shell series cosmetics was carried out according to the Technical Specification for Safety of Cosmetics(2015 Edition),QB/T 1857-2004 moisturizing cream and GB/T 29665-2013 skin care lotion,including appearance,aroma,pH、stability,microorganism and heavy metal,etc.The results showed that products reached the standard of conformity.Their efficacy and safety were evaluated preliminarily.The results showed that,the moisturizing effect of pearl moisturizing lotion was good,the SPF value of pearl sunscreen cream was over 25,it had better sunscreen effect,and the safety evaluation of three kinds of cosmetics was qualified.