| With the development of social economy,consumers’ demand for clothes has been rising to pursue individuality and quality.It is one of the trends of the development of the garment industry to develop the high-end garment industry and establish independent high-end customized brands.China’s garment industry has been transformed from processing production to design production and brand production.More and more independent clothing brands have entered the market and realized the transformation from quantity to quality.Women’s wear was modernized in the 1920 s,and a large number of world-influential costume masters emerged in the west,among which Chanel and Madeleine Vionnet were regarded as the origin of modern design.Therefore,learning Vionnet’s clothing works and the exploration of the methods and skills behind its style have certain guiding significance for China’s independent high fashion customization brands in the innovation of clothing structure.This paper takes the works of Vionnet as the research object.Firstly,learning the historical background of Vionnet.Starting from political and economic background,cultural and technological background and Vionnet’s experience,it explores the reasons for its clothing style.Secondly,Making a detailed analysis on the development and changes of the era,category,profile and detailed characteristics of clothing design,providing valuable samples for later research.Then,6 pieces of Vionnet classic clothing were selected for replication research,Using CLO 3D virtual simulation technology to conduct replication research from the aspects of structure,fabric and technology to obtain the accurate pattern information.By analyzing the pattern,this paper studies the cutting techniques of Vionnet from the perspectives of plane,stereo and human body,and summarizes several classical methods such as bias cutting,geometric cutting,slash and insert.Finally,by summarizing the dress cutting techniques of Vionnet,this paper uses them for reference and applies vionnet-style cutting techniques to modern dress design,and complete a series of dress design works.Based on the research on the cutting techniques of Vionnet,this paper summarizes the rules and methods of its garment design,hoping to provide certain reference value for the development of high-end customized apparel brands in China in the future. |