| The ease space between naked body and clothes is a complicated spatial form,which depends on human body shape,motion status,clothes style and pattern design.Currently,the spatial ease of human body is mainly researched based on three-dimensional scanning and mannequin,which ignored the changes of spatial ease caused by body shape and dressed movement.It can't reflect the distribution characteristics of the ease space under dressed.In order to study the change of spatial ease under dressed clothes when people moved,this paper used three-dimensional dynamic capture instrument(QUALISYS AB 3D MoCaP,Sweden)as experimental equipment to acquire the three-dimensional coordinates of marker points at the chest and waist sections.This paper defined the shortest distance from marker point to human body cross-section curve as the ease distance,applied the least square method to segment the chest and waist sections of naked body,and adopted the steepest descent method to calculate the shortest distance from marker point to naked body cross section curve.According to the series of experimental results,the distribution and variation characteristics of dressed clothes ease are analyzed.The research work and conclusions were introduced as the following:(1)Analysis of ease distribution characteristics under different motion conditionsThis chapter was aimed to investigate both static and dynamic ease distributions of clothes at bust and waist lines by using a 3D motion capture system(3DMCS).Three-dimensional scanner(TC2)was used to obtain the human data of 20 female college students.The body type of selected six female participants was 160/84A,and the ratio of chest to waist were within 0-0.1.The experiment was designed to explore how ease distributions dynamically change with various motions.The experimental results showed that the distribution and fluctuation of ease were different in three motion status.At bust,the ease tended to concentrate more in the left and right regions,while the ease at waist appeared to be gathered more in the front and back regions.When the participants walked or jogged,ease distance and distribution of different markers at the waist demonstrated different patterns.The dynamic ease between front and back region were positively correlated(at 2km/h speed,r=0.873,p<0.001;at 6km/h speed,r=0.895,p<0.001),while markers between left and right region showed negatively correlated,(at 2km/h speed,r=-0.961,p<0.001;at 6km/h speed,r=-0.971,p<0.001).The dynamic ease of markers in the same region(left&front)were positively correlated(markers 2 and 4,r=0.863,p<0.001;markers 6 and 8,r=0.789,p<0.001),dynamic ease of mark points in regions symmetrical to the y-axis(left-right)were negatively correlated(markers 2 and 16,r=-0.738,p<0.001)and those in regions symmetrical to the x-axis(front-back)were weakly correlated(markers 4 and 6,r=0.541,p<0.01).(2)The influence of fabric properties on static and dynamic ease distribution and fluctuation characteristicsThe mechanical properties of 13 common clothes fabrics were tested.Principal component analysis was used to extract the common factors of fabric properties.K-means fast clustering method was applied to classify the fabrics into five categories.We selected the typical fabrics and made the sample clothes.The influence of fabrics on dynamic ease distribution and fluctuation was analyzed under various speeds(2/km/h,4 km/h,6 km/h and 8km/h,respectively).The regression equations between fabric parameters and ease distance and fluctuation at bust and waist sections were obtained.The static ease at bust section was not affected by the mechanical properties of fabrics significantly,but the ease at waist section was affected by drape ability notably.The experimental results demonstrated the static ease at bust were significantly negatively correlated with warp crease recovery angle,warp stiffness and weft stiffness,while the ease at the waist were significantly positively correlated with drape ability.The dynamic ease at chest and waist sections was affected by the mechanical properties of fabrics.The ease at the front&back bust,and the waist were significantly correlated with warp bending stiffness rigidity,warp crease recovers angle and drape coefficient(R2>0.749).The ease at the side bust were correlated with weft crease recover angle,warp bending stiffness and drape coefficient(R2>0.896).The magnitude of ease variations at the bust were correlated with weft crease recovery angle,weft bending stiffness rigidity and warp bending stiffness rigidity(R2>0.951),while the magnitude on the waist were correlated significantly with weft crease recover angle,weft bending stiffness rigidity,and warp bending stiffness(R2>0.845).(3)The influence of garment size on the distribution and fluctuation characteristics of clothes easeFour size experimental clothes with different sizes of chest,waist and hip were made with common cotton fabrics.Ease between clothes marker and corresponding marker at naked body were collected synchronously,and the ease changes under dressed clothes were analyzed with different garment sizes.The experimental results showed that there was a good fit between the ease distribution and garment size in the left and right regions at the chest cross-section(left region R2=0.917,right region R2=0.812),and the garment size had little influence on the static ease at the front and back regions.The fitting results of the waist sections were better than the chest section,(front region R2=0.789,back region R2=0.998,left region R2=0.951,right region R2=0.733)Garment size influenced the variety of dynamic clothes ease.The markers near the center position at each region of cross sections showed a higher regression fitting degree between the garment size and the ease.The mean value of ease fluctuation in the left,right and back regions at the bust cross section was well fitted with the chest size,(back region R2>0.974,left region R2>0.965,right region R2>0.926).The mean value of ease fluctuation in the left,right and back regions at the waist section was well fitted with the waist size(front region R2>0.913,back region R2>0.973,left region R2>0.991,right region R2>0.905).Finally,the research results were applied in the clothes pattern design.The clothes patterns were modified according to dressed ease distribution at bust and waist.The revised clothes were verified their fitness through 3D virtual fitting software.We also used 3DMCS to check their dressed ease distance and fluctuation with the same participants.The verified experiment results showed that the fitness and even of ease distribution were improved remarkably. |
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