| As part of this study, a method has been devised of grouping a set of twenty-four nineteenth century embroidered raphia cloths made by various Kuba groups in the Kasai/Sankuru areas of present day Zaire. The method involved the analysis of two sets of data: first, formal elements; second, technical processes of embroidery and weaving. The formal elements included the relationship of the stitching to the base cloth in terms of the amount of base cloth visible; use of colour; and the interaction of unit forms. The technical processes included the weave of the base cloth and the type an placement of stitches.;A historical survey of the role and distribution of plain woven and embroidered raphia cloth by the BaKuba and their neighbours determined that although thee was a gradual decline in the use of plain woven cloth as currency after the introduction of cowries in the mid-nineteenth century, the cloth retained its traditional role of, among others, a form of tribute and an item of clothing. A the beginning of the nineteenth century, embroidered raphia cloth began to be produced increasingly for the tourist market which may have affected its role as an item of prestige.;A study was made of the relationship between the embroidered patterns and the subject matter, and of the role of the material in the embroidered cloths. It was found that the pattern and material were in themselves symbolic of the subject matter. |
