Concoction And Evaluation Of Dicaprylyl Carbonate Series Cosmetics

As natural oil extracted from plants,dicaprylyl carbonate can make skin smooth,soft,moist,elastic and healthy.It can also make dry skin and hardened cuticle lock moisture,so as to make them recover the soft and elastic state.As an extremely dry and comfortable emollient,it is widely applied to formulas of products such as skin care products,sunscreen products,foundation make-ups,anti-sweat agents and skin cleaning products.In the paper,skin care cosmetic with dicaprylyl carbonate as the oil matrix were prepared.Seven products under the research were named: anti-aging moisturizing essence lotion,night repair light moisturizing face cream,anti-dark circle light moisturizing eye cream,shea butter extra moisturizing hand cream,brightening tone-up cream,Rhodiola rosea broad-spectrum sunscreen milk,Rhodiola rosea base sunscreen cream.Research results of the paper are as follows:At first,formulas and technological design of seven products are discussed.With the formula design of extra moisturizing cream as the example,four-factor and three-level orthogonal design was conducted to the initial formula list.Range analysis was conducted to the 9 prepared samples with stability and rheological property as comprehensive indexes.The applying dosage of emulgator in the product formula was determined: 1.0% for glyceryl stearate,2.5% for Coco-Glucoside;addition dosages in the water-oil balanced system are as follows: 8.0% for caprylic/capric triglyceride,6.0% for dicaprylyl carbonate,6.0% for Ethylhexyl Palmitate,6.0% for glycerinum and 51.8% for deionized water;addition dosages in the thickened system: 0.2% for xanthan gum/ Arabic gum,1.0% for Sepiplus 400;emulsification temperature of 70?.Then,the in-vitro weighing method and the ultraviolet absorbance degree method were used for effective evaluation of moisture retention and sunscreen effect of 7 products.Experimental results show: under RH=81%,comparison results of absorbance effect are obvious,and the sequence is roughly: watery moisturizing emulsion > moist moisturizing cream > nourishing cream > cool moisturizing cream;under RH=43% and at the earlier stageof experiment(before 34h),the absorbance effects of the moist moisturizing cream and cool moisturizing cream were better than effects of the watery moisturizing emulsion and nourishing cream,while the result was opposite at the later stage of experiment;under the condition of dry silica gel,sequence of moisturizing rates of four products is: watery moisturizing emulsion> nourishing cream> moist moisturizing cream,the moisturizing effect of the cool moisturizing cream was better than effects of other three products at the earlier stage of 0-24 h,the moisturizing rate of the cool moisturizing cream decreased obviously at the later stage,and the final moisture loss rate reached 83.22%.As for two sunscreen products,the light absorbance mean in the UVB wavebands were 2.1858 and 2.5452,exceeding 2.1.Hence,they're able to block ultraviolet irradiation.As for the sunscreen milk,the ratios of UVA and UVB before and after illumination were 0.5935 and 0.5683,larger than 0.59 and0.56.The effect is rated as the three-star level.This result indicates that the ultraviolet protective spectrum of sunscreen milk was larger than that of sunscreen cream.Variance analysis results on enhancement of sunscreen effects of dicaprylyl carbonate show that it can significantly enhance the UVA waveband sunscreen effect of the sunscreen cream.Within the UVB waveband,after being compounded with ethylhexyl salicylate,it can greatly enhance their influences on sunscreen effects.Finally,efficiencies for the extracted Schisandra chinensis essential oil and ginsenoside to eliminate hydroxyl radical and superoxide radical were computed.The free radical elimination rate of vitamin E was taken as the positive control.The selected addition dosage of Schisandra chinensis did not exceed 0.5%.Its elimination rate of hydroxyl radical reached41.57% and its elimination rate of superoxide radical reached 8.73%.2%-4% was selected as the addition dosage of ginsenoside.Its elimination rate of hydroxyl radical reached50.78%-66.96%,and its elimination rate of superoxide radical reached 21.61-38.62%.