Optimization Of Cosmetic Formulations Containing AQUAXYL And Study Of Its Mechenism Of Moisturization

Moisturizing is the most basic guarantee for skin’s healthy and smooth. Moisturizing cosmetics have been the focus of research. Cosmetic products are mostly emulsion systems. When the liquid crystal structure is applied in the emulsion, it has better rheological properties, better stability and improved moisture resistance.The study used Liquid Crystal booster Alkylpolyglycosides emulsifiers MONTANOV 68 (Cetearyl Alcohol and Cetearyl Glucoside), MONTANOV 202 (Arachidyl Alcohol and Behenyl Alcohol and Arachidyl Glucoside), PEG-100 Stearate & Glyceryl Stearate, Synthetic polymer, Natural polymers and Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate to make cosmetic formulas without or with AQUAXYL (Xylitylglucoside & Anhydroxylitol & Xylitol). By microscopic observation, stability test and rheological test, synergy within emulsifier, rheological agent and AQUAXYL was studied and an optimized formula was chosen:the combination of 1.5% MONTANOV 68,1.5% MONTANOV 202 and 1% SEPIPLUS 400 has best synergy on stability and liquid crystal structure.Two types of biological experiments were used to explain the moisturizing mechanism of AQUAXYL. The first one was based on the simultaneous detection of 92 genes encoding proteins (enzymes, structural components etc.), involved in epidermal differentiation and barrier function. This study was carried out by quantitative (q) reverse transcription (RT)-polymerase chain reaction (PCR) analysis. Pathway analysis of AQUAXYL induced gene regulation was performed from raw data provided by StratiCELL with GeneSpring software. The second one was based on the quantification of secreted HA with a specific ELISA kit and on the detection of Aquaporin-3 with a western blot technique after an incubation of keratinocytes with various concentrations of AQUAXYL. The results showed: on reconstructed epidermis, AQUAXYL has a promotive effect on the genes expression related to epidermal differentiation and skin barrier function. Moreover, these results are reinforced by those of Aquaporin-3 and hyaluronic acid productions on human epidermal keratinocytes. AQUAXYL can thus act on the skin hydration regulation, acting on both structural components (hygroscopic and lipidic ones) and on the control of water transport.