Study On Silk Culture And Unearthed Robe Of Ming Dynasty In Zhejiang Province

The Ming dynasty was established by the Han nationality.At the beginning of Ming Dynasty,the Ming emperor Zhu Yuanzhang promulgated a series of policies to encourage the production of farming and sericulture,and also established a complete official system to manage the silk industry.The perfect official management system,rapidly growing social demand and convenient canal traffic have made the silk industry in Zhejiang Province develop rapidly in Ming Dynasty.In the Ming Dynasty,the people in Zhejiang Province used the unique natural environment for cultivating silkworm,dyeing and weaving.During this period,the silkworm varieties were improved,the silk production process was more reasonable and standardized,the number of colors was greater,and the looms were more advanced.This article studied the silk varieties,patterns and costumes of the Ming Dynasty based on the silk unearthed from the Lijiafen tomb in Ming Dynasty at Wangdian,Jiaxing,Zhejiang;Yangjiaqiao tomb in Ming Dynasty at Puyuan,Tongxiang,Zhejiang;Shaonan tomb in Ming Dynasty at Kangshan,Huzhou,Zhejiang,and those archaeological silk objects,and this research was carried out from the perspective of cultural relics,historical images,historical materials,and novels.According to the analysis of unearthed objects and relevant literature,we can know that silk varieties in Ming Dynasty have basically inherited that in the previous generation,mainly including thin-silk(juan),open-work silk(qi),satin,brocade,and so forth.On this basis,it also developed the techniques of flower-woven(Zhuanghua)and gold-woven(Zhijin).Silk fabrics have a wide range varities of motifs,which mainly include plans,animals,artifacts,geometries,humans,and nature.People offen combine those motifs to form patterns,after the combination,the patterns not only have special characteristics but also unique auspicious implications.The variety of costumes in Ming Dynasty is wide,and the ruler in that period used clothing as a marker for dividing people of different classes.Robes are the most common costumes in Ming Dynasty,which convey the unique costume culture.In this paper,the round collar robe with egret Xiongbei and Haechi Buzi(collected in the Chinese Silk Museum)unearthed from Shaonan tomb in Ming Dynasty at Kangshan,Huzhou,Zhejiang was taken as the research object.This paper studied the patterns,color,weave structure,warp and weft density of fabric,yarn specifications,structure design and sewing technology of which through on-site measurement and analysis,and imitated the round collar robe on the basis of the research.The pattern main fabric of unearthed robe suit was Sihe-ruyi moire with the implication of everything goes well,harmony and beauty,and the pattern of Xiongbei was egret.Referring to the ancient literature,it can be determined that the color of the unearthed robe was red and the color of Xiongbei was yellow.The unearthed robe has a cross-plane structure,the characteristics of structure design is round-neck,Youren,narrow-sleeve,and single-layer.The sewing process of the unearthed robe is mainly divided into flat sewing and curl sewing,in which the flat sewing is mainly used for the joint of two pieces of fabric,while the curl sewing is used for the hem,cuff and other part of the robe.Four pieces of fabrics were actually woven:left,right,Dajin and other according to the needs of imitation.Used computer pattern-making software to typeset the fabric,set the width and calculated the length.With the help of the warp and weft CAD of Zhejiang University,the jacquard weaving process was carried out.Finally,the fabric was weaved on the modern electronic jacquard loom and then treated by hot setting.According to the actual cutting and sewing process of the unearthed robe,the hand-stitching was performed,and finally the imitative robe was ironedOn the basis of study of silk culture in Zhejiang province,this paper imitated the fabric through moder weaving technology,and imitated the costume design through the actual cutting and sewing process,which provided a great reference value.