Analysis And Structural Restoration Of Men's Robes In Ming Dynasty From The Perspective Of Art Archaeology

In recent years,relevant studies on clothing mainly focus on two aspects: one is the study of traditional Chinese clothing culture with traditional clothing as the carrier;the other is the study of ethnic minority clothing culture with ethnic minority clothing as the carrier.The older generation of scholars represented by Shen Congwen mainly focus on the construction of the cultural system of Chinese traditional clothing and the clothing cultural system of different generations.The purpose of their research is to expand the research breadth of traditional clothing culture.Because there are a lot of historical costumes left in the Qing Dynasty and it is a dynasty that is relatively close to the modern society,the academic circle mainly focuses on the research of traditional costumes since the Republic of China in the Qing Dynasty,and the research content has reached an unprecedented breadth and width.In view of this phenomenon,the research focus of the current academic circle intends to advance forward along the Qing Dynasty.In addition,in recent years,some tombs unearthed in the Ming Dynasty and their costumes have been published and exhibited successively,which provides some physical support for the study of the Ming Dynasty costumes from the perspective of art archaeology.As one of the most important clothing categories in the Ming Dynasty,men's robes are seldom paid attention to and systematically studied at present.A thorough and systematic study of men's robes is conducive to the comprehensive construction of the cultural system of Ming Dynasty clothing and the expansion of the depth and breadth of the study of Ming Dynasty clothing.The research contents of this topic are shown in the following aspects:(1)The shape and types of men's robes in Ming Dynasty.Based on the official Ming Dynasty books,image data and clothing objects,the basic research work on the Ming Dynasty robes was completed,and the types,use range and wearing occasions of the Ming Dynasty male robes were sorted out mainly from three aspects of the feudal hierarchy,Yuan and Mongolian heritage and the secularization of Buddhist and Taoist costumes.The study holds that the rulers in the early Ming Dynasty had already constructed a complete feudal hierarchy system,which was continuously supplemented and improved in various dynasties.The clothes of the Ming Dynasty under the official regulation basically continued the form and system of the clothes of the early Ming Dynasty,with the inheritability of one line of succession.This paper analyzes the representative "yisha" of Yuan and Meng robes,and puts forward the development path and changes of its shape and system in Ming Dynasty.The study holds that in Ming dynasty,there existed three kinds of shapes and systems of waisted robe,pleated garment and horse-face style yisha,and it is suggested that yisha in Ming dynasty should not only know the horse-face style but ignore the other two shapes and systems.Through yisha,it explores the cultural exchange and integration of clothing among different nationalities.The monastic and Taoist costumes represented by the robe,the cloak,the straight body,and the loose robe get rid of the established groups and scope of the wearers,and go on the road of secularization,becoming a dress type that can be worn by everyone.(2)Pattern Category and Cultural Connotation of Men's Robe in Ming Dynasty.Starting from the feudal hierarchy,this paper divides the patterns of men's robes into dragon patterns,giving patterns,compensating patterns and other patterns.Based on the comprehensive textual research of image comparison,document record and real object analysis,this paper analyzes the shape and structure characteristics and development of the dragon pattern from the early to the middle and late Ming Dynasty.It is found that the pattern of giving clothes in the Ming Dynasty changed from vague and general in the early period to more definite pattern and color in the middle and late period.Meanwhile,it also analyzes the stitching form,composition structure,grade mark and the assumption of rank of the buzi in male robes.In addition to the feudal rank,the plant patterns in men's robes in the Ming Dynasty were mostly selected with auspicious meaning,such as flower patterns,moire patterns,miscellaneous treasure patterns and auspicious patterns,so as to express the beautiful spiritual support.Through the research on the categories and changes of the dress patterns in the Ming Dynasty,it is revealed that the dress patterns not only have the decorative function,but also are the external expression to show the identity and express the inner emotion.(3)Fabric and typical craft of men's robes in Ming Dynasty.Based on the basic research on the Ming Dynasty costume,relying on the clothing objects and the related research basis,this paper analyzes the fabric types,typical techniques and decoration methods of the Ming Dynasty male robe from the perspective of art archaeology.This paper puts forward five main types of robe materials in Ming Dynasty,their fabric characteristics and main uses,and confirms the development trend of Luo fabric from complicated to simple.Starting from the weaving and decoration skills,it is found that one of the most typical features of the makeup flower and kesi craft in the Ming Dynasty is the extensive use of weaving gold,silver thread,feathers,peacock feathers and other elements in the fabric.It is also found that in the middle and late Ming Dynasty,the decorative methods of sprinkling embroidery,Gu embroidery,kesi embroidery were created,which constructed a complete system of the artistic characteristics of men's robes in Ming Dynasty.(4)Analysis of the costume structure of men's robes in Ming Dynasty and the reconstruction of the physical structure.Men's robes in the Ming Dynasty have typical structures in the history of Chinese clothing.Many typical structures are only owned by the Ming Dynasty,such as robes with side ears on both sides.Through the analysis and interpretation of the structure of the robes,it is found that both the straight robes and the broken waist robes in the Ming Dynasty have the common character of enlarging the hem,which on the one hand is the inheritance of the Yuan and Mongolian traditions,and on the other hand has the ceremonial function of not exposing the underwear.At present,there are few studies on the restoration of Ming Dynasty costumes related to the Ming Dynasty male robes,the main reason is that although there are many Ming Dynasty costumes unearthed from Ming Dynasty tombs,few scholars have been able to observe and measure them closely.Moreover,the Ming Dynasty costumes are hundreds of years old,so relevant archaeological reports have not been able to record them in a comprehensive and close way.There is always a mirror between the museum visit and the real objects,and many limitations make it difficult to restore Ming Dynasty costumes.In the implementation process of this paper,part of the Ming Dynasty clothing objects can be closely watched and measured to obtain the first-hand information of the Ming Dynasty clothing.Two of the representative types of robes were selected for structural restoration,and the complexity of costume restoration was deeply felt.It was proposed that the restoration should start from the current situation and focus on record and inheritance.This project aims to complete the basic research on men's robe in the Ming Dynasty through the perspective of art archaeology,using sociology,history,art,archaeology,design and other interdisciplinary methods,combining theoretical research and restoration practice.Research on its shape,colors,patterns,fabrics,artistic characteristics,cultural connotations,characteristics of the times,etc.,to establish the theoretical framework and artistic system of Ming Dynasty gowns.