Extraction,Separation And Application In Make-up Product Of Curcumin Pigment

As the make-up using crowd becomes younger,the safety of cosmetic raw materials has become more and more important.Colour additives,the most significant part of the make-up product,can be divided into crude pigments and synthesis pigments according to difference sources.Natural plant pigments represented by curcumin have been used for centuries,which won’t totally damage our health but also have some special effects on antioxidant,anti-inflammatory and anti-cancer et al..Curcumin with brightly-coloured,fast dyeing and strong antioxidative is now applied to hair dye and anti-wrinkle skin care product but still hasn’t been mentioned in the make-up product.In this study,we described the extraction of curcuminoids from turmeric root base on ethanol reflux method and analyzed the component in the extract above by high performance liquid chromatography（HPLC）.Furthermore,the curcuminoids were separated utilized preparative thin layer chromatography（PTLC）and added into the BB cream formulation.Major results of this dissertation are as follows:1.Turmeric root was extracted as raw material.The effect of each factor such as extraction times,solid-liquid rate,ethanol concentration,temperature and duration were investigated to find the influence on total curcuminoids extraction content.The optimal extracting conditions of the curcumin were determined through orthogonal test:1:10solid-liquid rate,pure ethanol,60℃and 80 min reflux time,extract one time.Under these condition,the extraction content was 29.09 mg/g and the yield was 2.91%.2.Qualitative and quantitative analyses of the extracted curcuminoids were performed by HPLC.It explored the effect on test results with different detection wavelength,reference wavelength and mobile phase ratio and finally determined the detection method:detection wavelength 420 nm,reference wavelength 550 nm and mobile phase ratio acetic acid（HAc,8%）:acetonitrile（CH₃CN）=60:40.The main components consist of curcumin,demethoxycurcumin and bis-demethoxycurcumin,and their contents were 3.52 mg/g,4.63mg/g and 16.56 mg/g correspondingly,which is more accurate compared with the total curcuminoids result detected by UV-vis spectrophotometry.3.Type and radio of the developing solvent were investigated to optimized separation of the reflux extraction using thin layer chromatography（TLC）.Consequently,the best condition of the separation was:developing solvent ratio dichloromethane（CH₂Cl₂）:methyl alcohol（CH₃OH）=220:1 with HAc as tail inhibitor.The curcuminoids was separated by PTLC and detected by infrared spectroscopy（IR）.4.The cosmetic formulation was designed and prepared by adding extracts as natural pigments.The test of centrifuging,high temperature,low temperature,freeze thawing and stewing showed that the extracts had good stability and compatibility in the formulations.Makeup test showed that the cream had the effect on covering scar and brightening skin with no irritation.Photostability test exhibited that curcumin was more stability in the formula than in solution,which can satisfy the requirement of public use.