| As a kind of cultural accumulation of the Miao people,Miao costumes are the external symbols of the Miao ethnic groups.The hundred-bird embroidery costume Miao minority is claimed to be "ganao" because of its adoration of the bird,so it was embroidered with a large of bird’s stripes on its costume,and it was named hundred-bird embroidery costume.It is unknown by outside world that because its branches and sub-regions are in the high mountains,at the same time,people in these area are very poor,so that the branch system retains more primitive traditional costume cultural features.With the long-term life and social development,Miao women use the knowledge and skills summarized in their lives to make their costumes become unique clothing styles and decorative features,what’s more,they have been created and developed different patterning arts,Their unique aesthetic art and the cultural research are very valuable.In this paper,a number of field surveys were carried out in the typical settlements of The hundred-bird embroidery costume Miao minority in the borders of Danzhai,Rongjiang,Leishan,Congjiang and Sandu counties in southeastern Guizhou Province,and the author has been obtained A lots of videos,pictures and interviews,scientific and systematic collection,mapping,textual research their Clothing sample data,completely,objectively and detailed recorded many information about the hundred-bird embroidery costume.With reference to literature,the author has been mapped and organized the distribution map and historical culture of hundred-bird embroidery costume Miao minority ancestry.This branch was live in the top of mountains due to war migration and many other reasons,and it was only located in the ethnic minority villages of southeast Guizhou Province where the traffic is very lag.There are distinctive ethnic features,colorful costumes,and rich traditional culture between the branch.On the basis of full field research and detailed information collection,the results of the hundred-bird embroidery costume were carefully sortedout and analyzed,their style and structure of the clothing were mapped and combed,and the types,extracted and classified the pattern types and pattern connotations from their clothing,recorded and generalized its costume production techniques.The hundred-bird embroidery costume Miao minority clothing is mainly divided into ordinary clothing and splendid attire,dress and personal adornment includes headscarf,tops,ribbon skirts,pleated skirts,bright cloth pants,belts,aprons,leggings,swaddles,bags and silverware.The dressmaking form is unique and is not the same as other branches of the Miao ethnic group,especially,it is embodied in the splendid attire of the hundred-bird embroidery costume.The splendid attires are made of embroidered pieces connected by embroidered strips,and the men’s dresses are as same bright-colored and beautiful as women’s dresses,with a wide variety of patterns and rich and varied pattern types,complicated process flow and exquisite workmanship.From the analysis clothing structure,garment form and craftsmanship method of The hundred-bird embroidery costume Miao nationality clothing,it is concluded that its costume structure and China Cross flat structure are inherited in the same vein,they also upholds the philosophy and spirit of frugality and respect.The types of clothing patterns of the branch can be classified into comprehensive patterns,geometric patterns,plant patterns and animal patterns,these four types pattern are divided into two classes: immutable patterns and free-running patterns.The singleness and tediousness of patterns are combinations of abstract and figurative.There are independent and integrated dermatoglyphic pattern modeling methods,dermatoglyphic pattern modeling methods include stylized modeling methods,conformal modeling methods,space-time modeling methods,and main image development modeling methods,the modeling features are divided into basic features and aesthetic features,constraints can be divided into four categories: ancestor worship,reproductive worship,natural worship,and record of events.The costumes are complex and time-consuming of this branch,and requires steps such as growing cotton,silkworm breeding,weaving cotton cloth,dyeing,batik,embroidery,and brocade,these processes are the same as those of other branches,the article simply outlines the same craftsmanship method,in which the decorative embroidered strips is a unique component of its branch,and the decorative embroidered strips plays a role in connecting,fixing and decorating in the hundred-bird embroidery costume,its style is varied different width and width.Flat wire silk is a non-textile silk fabric,it is made from the silkworm well-distributed spinsilk on a flat plate after sericin has naturally adhered,the reason why hundred-bird embroidery costume Miao minority is different from other Miao people is that they using a large area of flat wire silk as a costumed material,is also one of the important reasons caused the economic value and the value of the collection,and becoming the important symbol of the branch.The study of its clothing,analysis of its clothing structure,patterns,process,is conducive to the protection and development of the hundred-bird embroidery costume Miao clothing culture inheritance and development,but also enriched the dressmaking form of Chinese ethnic minority clothing. |