| The South Sea of China is wide and rich in natural resources, it's also widely distributed a lot of coral reefs. The wave force calculation has important and practical significance to build structures on the top of reef flat and construct ports inside the lagoon.The depth of water will change sharply as a result of the existence of coral reef, many published studies simplified the reef terrain to a step, the process of wave propagation across the reef flat to its lagoon has been researched in this paper, so the terrain is simplified to a 1:5 steep slope and a long horizontal reef flat section and lagoon section. Base on the physical experiments, the wave propagation process, changes of the wave spectrum, wave transformation and the wave height distributions for regular wave and irregular wave are carried out. Wave propagation process of this terrain are described, and the relationship between the wave height on the reef flat or in its lagoon and the depth of water over the windward reef flat is analyzed. The changes of the wave spectrum and the transformation of the wave energy are also been discussed. Wave transformation can be represented by same parameters, such as asymmetry and skewness, the relationship between asymmetry, skewness and Ur is studied. Compared the measured wave height distribution with the Glukhovskiy distribution and the Rayleigh distribution, discuss the relationship between measured representative wave height and the result derived from the Rayleigh distribution, and the relationship between the representative wave heights are discussed too.In this paper, the formulas of the relationship between asymmetry, skewness and Ur are given, as well as the formulas of the relationship between the representative wave heights, and the spectrums of the crushing wave are analyzed preliminary. The research results could provide experimental basis and reference to the practical engineering design and numerical simulation of the wave propagation on the upheaval terrain. |
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