Shenyi Structure Research

Shenyi,is a kind of ancient times and one-piece upper and lower garment,also called long dress,it is clothing when the ancient emperor,and the surname and so on the scholars and officials stay at the time of leisure household to take,and can also be used as a dress of the people.Shenyi,one of the earliest clothing in our country,has an extremely profound effect on the evolution of Chinese dress for thousands of years,and It is also a vital part of ancient Chinese costume history.We can say "shenyi" is a key to the later clothing,so the study of shenyi also has an extraordinary meaning for the entire history of the garment.The concept of shenyi was originally mentioned in the book of rites "shenyi" and "the jade algae",but due to the inherent inadequacy of the pattern and the evolution of the meaning of the ancient text,and physical scarcity,so the generations of later dynasties scholars have different views on shenyi.At the root of this,all generations of scholars use text to study text,research on shenyi only from the Angle of words.Painted graphics,most of which is the pattern of the plane.This article provides another kind of research thinking that complements the previous scholar,from the structure,the tailor's Angle,provide the depth of garment and physical feasibility analysis.This article is based on the order of dynasties,beginning with the original mention of shenyi "the book rites",analysing the two articles of the "shenyi" the "the jade algae" on the first,and extracting the rules for deep clothing,take the analysis of the study of the song dynasty zhu xi's "the politeness","shenyi study" written by huang zongxi in the late Ming and early qing dynasty,the qing dynasty Jiang yong's "shenyi study's error" and his disciple dai zhen's "shenyi explaining" in turn.In this paper,the author detailed and analyzed the meaning of each sentence,so as to obtain the corresponding cut size,finally combining with each article in the design that has given graph and map out deep garment cutting structure,for deep garment restoration,finally getting each shenyi to compare with regulations of shenyi's shape in the "shenyi" and "the jade algae" in the rites,concluding that the structure correspond to the different parts are met.In the end,the author concludes the characteristics of the three deep coats by summarizing:the next piece of cloth is 12 pieces of cloth;the waistline is 7.2 feet;the cuff is 1.2 feet;the collar;it has lapel etc.It also combines the rules of the deep dress in the two articles of "shenyi" and "the jade algae",and propose new definition for deep tailoring.This deep clothing is a combination of the above three deep dress in common drawn,only minor changes,but in the skirt part,through the recovery deep clothes,we can found that the size of the previous scholars are too big,which can't agree with the provisions of the "rites" hem in parallel to the ground,combined with the unearthed objects,the author made a slight adjustment to hem size.