Research On The Clothing Of Buyi Brocade In Zhenning County,Anshun City,Guizhou

Buyi nationality is one of a larger ethnic minority in the southwest of China and its dress is an important part of Chinese national costume.Researches of different disciplines focus on varied aspects of Buyi clothing.So far the existing studies have mainly centered around the cultural attribute of the Buyi clothing.This paper,from the point of design science and principles and methods of clothing and other related disciplines,aims to focus on the material attribute of clothing itself and attempts to enrich and perfect the contents in research of Buyi clothing.At the same time,this paper also hope to inherit the essence of Buyi clothing and let it keep in trends of changes of era by which it would not fade into history,and that would mean some guiding significance on theory and practical value in applicationThis paper takes the clothing of Buyi brocade in Zhenning county,Anshun city,Guizhou as the object and make thorough investigation of Buyi clothing in Zhenning with a variety of methods such as observation,analysis and comparison.The type、pattern、color、fabric of clothing were analysed systematically based to the data obtained from the field investigation,trying to restore the appearance of Buyi clothing in Zhenning objectively and consolidate it into a set of complete dress system.In addition,it explores the feasibility of applying the Buyi clothing elements into modern clothing design by making comparison of Buyi traditional clothing with the modern fashion aesthetic and thus seeking a relationship between them.We hope to conclude some design principles to follow and meantime provide evidence to them with design cases,which would end up with some advice on extending living space for Buyi clothing in Zhening.Conclusions are as follows:1.Buyi clothing in Zhenning has relatively fixed matching principle,based on the characteristics of match,it can be divided into three different types: Panpa type、Panbian type and Gongqiao type.Among them,Panpa type is the costume with trousers for both men and women,whose apparel modeling is homogeneous and ornaments are very simple.While Panbian type and Gongqiao type are the costume with dresses only for women,whose apparel modeling is more complex and ornament is more gorgeous compared to Panpa type.The major difference among the three types is reflected in the headdress.Then female headdress can be divided into two types: unmarried headdress and married headdress.So according to the different headdress worn by women,we can not only judge the clothing type,but also tell their age range.2.According to the process characteristics,patterns of Buyi clothing in Zhenning can be divided into batik,brocade and embroidery.There are rich pattern materials in Buyi clothing and mostly are biological material.Patterns of fish and birds make up a sizeable proportion of them;The main color of Buyi clothing in Zhenning are blue and cyan,the overall color has remarkable characteristic of strong sense of contrast,normally reflected in the contrast of light and shade,cold and warm;Apparel fabrics mainly include dyeing cloth,Buyi fabrics and Buyi brocade.But Buyi brocadeisexpensiveandnot commonlyused.3.For the methods of creative design,the paper analyzes that the most important way is to grasp the elegant style and the feeling it gives.Also,this paper puts forward three suggestions on the innovation of Buyi clothing elements.First,it attempts to make appropriate adjustments to the color of Buyi clothing combined with the current popular color.Then,it tries to remodel the patterns by means of deconstruction.In the end,it devotes to retain the original symmetry,scaling relation and sense of layering.