Research On Women's "Dao-da-xiu" Coat In Republic Period

The period of Republic of China is very important stage that Chinese traditional costume is influenced by Western culture and makes changes. Meanwhile, the period is also important transition that Chinese traditional women costume develops into the modern women costume. In this period, the shape of women's clothing is diverse and distinctive, and women “Dao-daxiu” coat is the symbolic mark of women costume in the 1920 s. Although the “sleeve” coat only prevails for more than ten years, with its special arts and different designing shape that differs from the traditional women costume, it also contributes to the women costume developing into the modern shape further.This thesis focuses on the costume culture, researching on the history background, artistic aesthetics, methods to wearing and matching as well as civilization revolution of “Dao-da-xiu” coat profoundly. The author analyzes 29 women “Dao-da-xiu” coats collected in the folk dress ethnic culture school of Jiangnan University. The author also researches on the related historical documents, database data and image data, with using the methods of physical measurement combining the historical records. This paper analyzes the overall clothing aesthetic characteristics of “sleeve” coat's style, fabric material, colors, designs and decoration process, structure and production process. It selects “Dao-da-xiu” coats' jacket sleeves, garment body, garment, skirts, buttons and other partial clothing characteristics to research, concluding the special aesthetic features of “Dao-da-xiu” coat.Women “Dao-da-xiu” coat during the period Republic of China is not only the harmonious and orderly inheritance to the traditional costume, but also exploits the modern beautyappreciation. Its shape is formed under the influence of eastern and western culture, so the characteristics are different from traditional women costume. Through researching on the wearing and matching methods of “Dao-da-xiu” coats, the author compares it with that of methods during late Qing dynasty period to analyze the changes of whole wearing and matching shape, the social transition and culture from this changes, civilization thoughts and folk characteristics. This paper concludes the cultural characteristics of “Dao-da-xiu” coats' development in the Republic of China. Compared with women costume in the late Qing dynasty, the aesthetic elements become simple, and the styles become narrow and small from loose and big, the dress has no social status, and women wearing psychology becomes individual, vogue and more liberate themselves.