The Research Of Ruyi Yuntou On Women Tops In The Late Qing Dynasty And The Early Republic Period

This paper attempts to complete the research of Ruyi Yuntou on women tops in the late Qing Dynasty and the early Republic period. First, in this paper, method combining archaeological objects with documents, traces the origin of Ruyi Yuntou and summarizes its characteristics in different times. Also, this paper researches on the application fields of Ruyi Yuntou on ancient costumes for the first time. Next, based on the analysis of collection material,studies and discussions on shape designs, decorative positions, color matching relations, crafts and material characteristics of Ruyi Yuntou on women tops are developed. Then, with the evidences of old photographs and material objects, this paper discusses groups, styles, and occasions via wearing perspective. Finally, having partly replicative experiments according to material objects, the real motivations of makers behind Ruyi Yuntou are further digged up.The formation and possession of normalized Ruyi Yuntou, which sprang up in widely application fields among ancient costume since Tang Dynasty, emerged no later than the Warring States Time. In the late Qing Dynasty and the early Republic period, Ruyi Yuntou, which appeared on the women tops material objects, showed rich varied detailed designs combined with a skeleton of Tai Chi image and half of the shape of clouds mostly. Ruyi Yuntou distributes mostly in marginal positions of costumes such as collar and cuff, making a “frame” effect, which not only plays a strong decorative role, but also performs excellently in practical use due to its marginal protective effect. Generally, in order to highlight its decorative function, the color of Ruyi Yuntou contrasts strikingly with its costume’s. Moreover, its fabric shows multifarious delicate crafts and often shows them within a single piece. Women tops with Ruyi Yuntou decoration meet a wide range of group, and the merely discrepancy is material, which differs according to gaps of wealth. Matching clothes such as skirts and pants, and coordination with color matching relation and some specific detailed decoration, require not as much in Ruyi Yuntou. Also, Yuntou pattern differs according to wearing occasions. Last, research efforts in this paper are hoping to arouse public’s will on traditional culture’s inheritance and protection.