| Ramie fiber is an excellent natural fiber, its products have many good properties such as moisture absorption and air permeability, dry-touch and antibacterial activity, humidity releasing and heat dissipation. In addition, ramie fiber gradually become a new fashion trend because of the characteristic of fabric style, but the processing and wearing of pure ramie still has some limitations. According to the current development trend of the Multi-blended fabric, in this paper, the fine ramie fiber is blended with sea island cotton and viscose fiber, which improves the spinnability in production, and four groups of 9.84tex(60S) single yarn of different blending ratio are gotten, the four blended ratio are: JC/R(70/30), JC/R/H(60/30/10), JC/R/H(50/30/20) and JC/R/H(40/30/30). In the design of fabric specification, in order to overcome the defects of the single fiber varieties so that the fabrics not only play advantages of skin-friendly and comfortable of cotton, good soften property and perfect moisture absorption of viscose, breathable and dry-touch of ramie, but also remedy defects of wet-strength of viscose, prickle sensation of ramie, choosing JC/R(70/30) as the warp yarn, 10 samples including two kinds of organizational structure about plain and twill were woven by changing the varieties of weft, The wearing properties of 10 samples were studied and analysised, The main conclusions are as follows:(1) The effect of blending ratio to the properties of the yarns was obvious. With the increase of the ratio of ramie, yarn unevenness increased, slubs and yarn defects grew on a large scale, breaking strength and breaking elongation decreased, strength CV and elongation CV increased, hairiness longer than 3 mm showed an increasing trend, yarn’s quality declined.(2) Pilling resistance of 10 kinds of sample had little difference, all of them can meet the wearing demand. However, the crease resistance of all samples were not ideal, twill fabric was slightly better than the plain, but the increase of ramie fabric made the wrinkle resistance worse. So the anti-crease finish should be taken into account in finishing process.(3) The contact comfort of the sample was tested by FTT and KES-F, then comprehensive evaluated the sample by using gray nearly optimal evaluation method. The result showed that: the nearly optimal dgree of twill was better than plain, and the higher of the ratio of ramie fiber, the better the fabric style was. Therefore, the twill fabric with weft yarn blending ratio of JC/R/H(40/30/30) has the best contact comfort for summer men’s shirt fabrics.(4) The air permeability, heat resistance, moisture resistance, moisture permeability, wet rate and other indicators were tested under the condition of 30℃ and 80% relative humidity, the fabric thermal-wet comfort was evaluated by the fuzzy mathematical method. The results showed that thermal-wet comfort performance of twill is better than plain in the same blending ratio. In the summer environment, thermal-wet comfort performance becomes better with ramie ratio increasing. Through ranking by score, twill samples with yarn blended ratio of JC/R/H(50/30/20) and JC/R/H(40/30/30) have good thermal-wet comfort performance.(5) In addition, three different set of humidity below 20℃ were designed, and three perfornance indicators of thermal resistance, water-vapor transmission rate and desorption rate were choosed, to study the effect of humidity on thermal-wet comfort performance in a three-dimensional coordinate system. The result showed that the coordinate point in space distribution has an obvious impact in three different relative humidity, fabric with high content of ramie can reflect more excellent thermal-wet comfort performance in high humidity environment. |
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