Research On Relationships Between The Appearance And Fabric Mechanical Properties Of Bias Cut A-shape Skirt

The bias-cutting clothing,by its different appearance as well as consumer pursuit of personality clothing,makes itself have considerable market value.The appearance design and the shape design are not only the important basic part in clothing design but also the most effective basic for structure design and processing design.The fabric as a carrier make the bias cutting clothing design to be reality.So it is important to study the relation between the mechanical property of fabric and the appearance of bias-cutting A-shape skirt.They can provide accurate theoretical guidance for the fabric choice,design and making of A-shape skirt.First,this article will give a systematic introduction on the factors which influence the appearance of bias cutting A-shape skirt.According to its appearance and shape,make comprehensive evaluation from two aspects of dynamic and static.By the photography of skirt’s front, side, and bottom, and image processing to get the static objective appearance evaluation index and by questionnaire survey to get the subjective appearance evaluation index of A-shape skirt from the female in different age.The second part is about the material mechanic property text and appearance evaluation of clothing.We collect43kinds of material, make test about drapability and KES fabric style.we choose6kinds of fabrics,cut them according to3yarn direction and produce18samples.Proposed a new method according to the difference of warp and weft fabric mechanical properties to determine the best angle of bias.Then,we get the appearance evaluation of the samples which were produced by the33kinds of fabric and were cut on the basis of the best angle.Static appearance evaluation can be divided into static appearance subjective evaluation and the static appearance index measurement.Dynamic appearance evaluation including investigation about right of speech and the degree of preference to index and subjective evaluation about appearance in dressing.The third part is about date analysis.According to the static appearance subjective evaluation scores,and using the improved grey correlation degree analysis method to get the static appearance evaluation index weight and build the linear relation between the static appearance evaluation index and static appearance subjective evaluation scores; basing on the Group decision sort of Markov chain method to get the index weight of reviewers’speaking right and their dynamic appearance evaluation, and calculate the total scores of the dynamic appearance evaluation; using the principal component regression analysis to find the regression prediction model between the appearance index of bias cut A shape skirt type garment and its mechanical properties of fabrics.Finally, on the basis of the above analysis,put the prediction model which was made according to the material mechanic property and the appearance evaluation of the type A skirt into bias-cutting design. Produce different pattern samples by using the rest of10kind of fabric and select best fabric according to the static appearance evaluation.The study of the paper can be used in the appearance forecast of the bias-cutting type A skirt and the objective selection of fabric for the costume designers.It has a strong practical significance.