Forming Mechanism Of Seersucker Fabric And Researches In Its Processing Technology

Seer-sucker is a kind of conventional fabric woven in the shuttle loom with low speed and tiny tension, which is easy to adjust art parameter. Due to the tiny tension of shuttle loom, people used to consider it as the only condition of seersucker production. With the development of science and technology, high speed shuttleless loom with high tension, which was a general knowledge, become more and more popular. So it has turned out to be a new task for promoting shuttleless loom that whether it would have the same pucker effect when producing seersucker in the high-speed shuttleless loom compared with the shuttle loom.The research of this article shows the key factor to weave seersucker is the width if fabric-forming area. Under the condition of two self-governed let-off units, two different warp systems have their own width of fabric-forming area due to different resistance of beating-up. Therefore they have different weft density in the fabric-forming area, which leads to different fabric length. That is the real reason of seersucker forming. The tension of pucker warp is only a factor affecting the fabric-forming area. Air-jet loom runs at high speed with high warp tension. The tension of pucker warp cannot be set too low, but the width of fabric forming area can be increased by adjusting shedding time, compensating time, and compensating amount as well, which can help to increase the ratio of pucker.The compensating amount of the warp guide-rod directly influences the effect of compensation. So does the compensating time of warp guide rod. Suitable amount and time could easy tension, but larger amount or improper time would worsen tension. In conclusion, in order to gain good pucker effect, moderate amount and early time are the best, which can guarantee low tension at beating-up, so it is easy to make fabric pucker, and large tension at the picking, which makes shed clear, decreases picking failure.The parameter-setting principle of high-speed air-jet loom has been confirmed as: firstly, lower the pucker warp tension, if the weaving efficiency drops, then shift to delay shedding time, in order to increase pucker ratio and maintain the efficiency. If it still doesn't work, then increase the compensating amount and bring forward compensating time.Based on the seersucker theory found in this article, kinds of seersucker's product are developed, which include not only simple stripe ones but also double-wise(warp-weft) pucker, intermittent pucker seersucker and Dobby seersucker.