Research On Comparison And Application Of The Standard Women’s Coat Structural Design Method

Clothing structural design is an important component in the field of fashion design profession, and it serves as the crucial connecting link in the clothing artistic design to the product-forming process. Using different clothing application of structural design methods, is bound to get different patterns of garments and different clothing wearing effects.New Japanese cultural-type prototype and method of proportion are two typical ways of Clothing structural design methods. There’s a wide spectrum of opinions on their pros and cons. This paper uses a method of combination of theory and practice. In other words, practice is based on the theory and practice verify the conclusions. Taking a variety of styles as examles, the paper uses two different structural design methods to produce the same clothing style. There are four factors that affect the design of clothing structure, which are clothing styles, clothing materials, clothing sewing techniques, and clothing wearing effects of the body. The paper will make a analysis of these four factors one by one with comparisons of different patterns of clothing and the wearing effect of the finished garments. At last, by verifying the pattern differences reflected on the finished products, the thesis objectively evaluated the superiority of the New Japanese cultural-type prototype. This thesis aims to vigorously promote the apparel industry to use New Japanese cultural-type prototype after a through in-depth comparative study that New Japanese cultural-type prototype is better than method of proportion. According to the current situation of this method in the field of education and business, the drawbacks of the method of proportion, and the advantages of New Japanese cultural-type prototype, the paper ensured the necessity and inevitability of the use of New Japanese cultural-type prototype. At last, the thesis pointed out that, in order to promote the development of China’s garment industry, and improve the international competitiveness of China’s garment industry, New Japanese cultural-type prototype method must be used.The superiority of the New Japanese cultural-type prototype is from several comparisons, comparisons of the theory, mapping methods, mapping factors, patterns and wearing effects. These advantages are embodied in the following aspects.1. ScientificNew Japanese cultural-type prototype is a scientific knowledge system. By three-dimensional tight experiment, this method summed up to get a prototype planar structure mapping. The repeated experiments, the conversion and the induction process, not only revealed the relationships between the human body and the elements of clothing, but also revealed the relationships as well as the rules between garment modeling and graphic design, which makes New Japanese cultural-type prototype has a theoretical basis and scientific practice.2. RationalityRationality is reflected on the theory of "people-oriented" basis in the pre-drawing. The rationality is also embodied from the reasonable changes of the length of the prototype back, the complete saving transfer theory, front shoulder22°unrelated to the circumference size, setting back shoulder18°and so on. The method considers the human body, style, materials and sewing techniques. After the drawing there will be a trying on, correction and dress inspection.3. EfficiencyEfficiency reflects that the mapping method as well as theoretical formula are more efficient and they are simple to learn, which can effectively improve the validity of garment pattern maker.4. AdaptabilityAdaptability reflects that New Japanese cultural-type prototype is adapted to the internationalization of the apparel market, clothing cultural exchange, the education of the clothing structural design talents, and the demands of the style personality of today’s garment enterprises, diversification, and fashion.