Institutional Conflict And Vicissitude Of Costume

Social transformation is a complex system project, including the transformation of economic system, the change of political institution and the renewal of cultural idea. Most of research for social transformation focused on the exploration of macro-structure and micro-factor, related to economic and political structure, and seldom of them began their discussion in the micro perspective of transformation of people's self-consciousness. This dissertation tries to discuss the change locus of self-consciousness in the process of social transformation through the exploration to the change of costume and self-consciousness. To describe the clear venation of people's self-consciousness, with the research for costume change in the background of social transformation, do have the theoretical meaning and influential power to remove the confliction between macro and micro.This paper mainly discusses the self-consciousness change embodied by contemporary intellectual's costume change from 1960 years in 20 century. Intellectual stratum, relative to other social stratum, is more sensitive to the change and pressure brought by social transformation, and they have the deepest self-questioning to their self-consciousness. In this paper, the author tries to understand and interpret the nature of social transformation in a new perspective through the case research for the costume change in this group. This paper reveals the people's gradual socialization in society according to intellectual's costume change over the years, regarding intellectual'sdressing behavior and custom as the research object. The change of costume is the external embodiment of self-consciousness and the expression of self-identification. Due to its close correlation with social transformation, costume change is the external expression of individual's self-consciousness in social transformation. The transforming of social structure influence people's self-consciousness, which further determines people's dressing behavior. As a result, it will have actual meaning to research for people's clear cognition of self-orientation and self-consciousness in the perspective of dressing and costume.This paper mainly clears some relative theories below: social transforming theory provides macro background, and symbol-interaction theory offer thinking for grasping and understanding self-consciousness, and costumes make us have a clear understanding about costume change, and language sociology support us in methodological reference and inspiration.I give some theoretical hypotheses based on theoretical literature review:1, the confliction between formal and informal institution in the process of social transformation results in the intellectual's change in self-consciousness, which is embodied by the costume change.2, social transformation will inevitably cause the position change of intellectual stratum, leading to the change of self-consciousness which is embodied by the costume change.With the combination of case description in relative literature works and interview materials in field research, this paper draws the outline of relationship between intellectual's costumes change andself-consciousness change in the background of social transformation in the institutional conflicting and semiologic perspective through the method of case research analysis, which actually is trying to research social transformation in a micro perspective. Although most of researches study social transformation in macro structural perspective due to its macro structure transformation and vicissitude process, however, this paper tries to acquire a new kind of understanding and interpretation on social transformation in the micro perceptive of self-consciousness change. People's behavior and social structure is one process of mutually establishing, in which people's behavior continuously create new social structure under the limitation of social structure, whereas people's behavior is controlled by self-consciousness, which bridges self-consciousness and social structure with the...